If you’ve been following project BTB then you’re already aware that we’ve chosen a TCI Transmission Super Street Fighter 4L80E transmission for this project.  We covered the installation previously in another story. This transmission offers a ton of great features and will not only stand up to BTB’s insane power output but should also give us years or reliable service on the street and at the drag strip.

We covered installing the transmission in January 2012, now we'll cover installing the control system and a few other components

The 4L80E also features a gear ratio setup of 2.48 first, 1.48 second, 1.00 third and a 0.75 OD for fourth. This is a fairly typical ratio setup for a four speed automatic. One thing we really like though is the 2.48 first should help hit the tires a little softer on drag strip launches (or let us launch at a higher RPM). The .75 over drive fourth gear will let us cruise home on the interstate without going insane from high RPM drone, as well as be a little easier on the engine and other parts since we’ll be turning less than 6,500 rpm.

Building a Strong Transmission

Nearly all TCI transmissions start life as a core. Cores come into a TCI facility where they are disassembled and put through a rigorous inspection process. All of the wear parts including clutches, steels and seals are discarded. Valve bodies are sent out to a separate part of the facility for reworking and modification.

Transmission cases are thoroughly inspected during and after the core tear down process for signs of wear, defects or fractures to ensure they are as strong as possible. Drums and input shafts, also known as hard parts, are also scrutinized carefully to ensure they can be used in the build process. Once these parts pass inspection they are sent to designated areas for modification or reconditioning and will later be installed in the transmission application that they are best suited for.

Strong Origins

Our project BTB is making serious power and we need a transmission that can handle the punishment. With that said, the 4L80E is already a stout transmission originally, TCI’s Scott Miller told us, “There’s a lot of parts in this transmission that are already very strong to begin with.”

All Super Street Fighter transmissions are built using some of the best and toughest parts available in the transmission industry. These include Kolene treated steels, Alto Red Eagle clutches, Red Eagle lined extra-wide power-bands, larger diameter servos, new sprags or roller clutches – enhanced hard parts where needed and an improved transmission lubrication system.

Every TCI transmission is built in house by one of TCI’s dedicated in house transmission builders. These builders are brought up through the company and must pass a three month long training program to be allowed to build transmissions. Their sole job at TCI is transmission building. This allows them to be focused exclusively on building the product, and not distracted by other issues.

Our particular Super Street Fighter has had its original GM bell housing machined off the case to make it modular. This allows it to be installed in a variety of applications, including our small block Ford. The valve body has received a different set of springs, and modified separator plates to mechanically firm up the shifts. Other modifications to the transmission included updated sprag and input shaft, as well as a billet steel hub.

Additional Upgrades

Since our transmission will be subjected to regular abuse at the strip, and even more cruising on the street we decided to maximize it’s life by keeping it cooler. To do this we installed two additional available upgrades from TCI.

Maximum Cooling

We mounted the Max Cool transmission cooler directly to the front of our radiator with the supplied hardware.

The first is a TCI Max-Cool transmission cooler. This was a simple matter of attaching the max cool lines to the transmission cooler lines for our transmission. Then we mounted the cooler in a location in front of our radiator where it can get cool fresh air. This heavy duty cooler already has the mounting plates pre-drilled. It’s design increases the surface area available for cooling and can lower transmission temperatures by as much as 33%. We’re using part number 824103 as recommended by TCI.

Pan Upgrade

Our second upgrade is one of TCI’s Max Cool transmission pans, part number 278000. This pan features additional cooling fins to further cool the transmission fluid as air passes under the car and across the fins. The deep design also allows for 4.5 extra quarts of fluid capacity. This too allows for better transmission cooling since the heat can be spread across more fluid, and TCI states that the Max Cool pan will reduce temperatures 20-30 degrees over the stock pan. The pan’s design also actually increases transmission strength with its thick cast aluminum construction, acting as a girdle for the bottom of the transmission. All the parts necessary for installation were included, and it’s literally a job that only takes a few minutes of dropping the old pan, swapping on the new one and refilling the lost fluid.

Side by side with the original 4L80E pan on the left and the new TCI Max Cool Pan on the right, the differences are obvious

Fluid

With over 1,000 hp on tap, we wouldn’t fill our transmission with just any off the shelf ATF. We need something that will stand up to the high heat, as well as offer our transmission the best performance possible. We chose to fill our 4L80E with 12 quarts (yes that’s a lot of fluid!) of TCI Max-Shift transmission fluid, we’re using the racing formula, part number, 950620.

Max Shift offers high resistance against thermal breakdown, plus TCI states that it exceeds the standards of both Mercon and Dexron type fluids. It’s also compatible with other types of transmission fluid, meaning if we were simply servicing our transmission we could add Max Shift to it with no worries regarding compatibility.

Transmission Control

The Super Street Fighter 4L80E is an advanced transmission that was intended from the factory to be computer controlled. Obviously our project BTB was not originally equipped with a GM transmission. This creates potential dilemma in how to properly control the unit.

The EZ-TCU control system is a revolutionary way to install and control a transmission that requries computer controls

Far left: The brains behind the EZ-TCU system is the EZ-TCU unit itself, developed for TCI by FAST. Center Left: We mounted our EZ-TCU under the driver's seat for easy access. Center Right: the harness for the transmission was routed through a hole in the transmission tunnel. Far Right: The transmission harness is simply a plug and play connection.

Through the years a multitude of controllers have been on the market for operating a computer controlled transmission. Some have come and gone, some are extremely complex, while others are well past their prime.

The solution for us comes directly from TCI in the form of their EZ-TCU. TCI worked directly with FAST (Fuel Air Spark Technology) one of the performance industry’s top computer control manufacturer’s to develop the EZ-TCU. Miller says, “The name fits it perfect, it’s a stand alone transmission control unit based on the FAST EZ-EFI format.”

Our system included TCI's slick Outlaw shifter and we connected the yellow wire to the harness for the shifter for our upshift button and the red wire for the downshift button. Using these two buttons will allow us to shift trigger finger style, no need to slap a shifter or slide through the correct pattern.

The EZ-TCU takes the guesswork out of setting up a computer controlled transmission and does so at an affordable price. For what an average tuner might charge just to get another control system dialed in for your car, you can buy a complete EZ -TCU and harness kit. Included in our EZ-TCU kit was the EZ-TCU, the hand held controller which can be mounted inside the car, and the harness for our transmission. We complimented the install with a TCI Outlaw shifter that contains two buttons for manually up shifting and down shifting the 4L80E.

The EZ-TCU package comes complete with a harness and shifter. Installation is a matter of connecting a power, ground, ignition on, and a handful of other wires and connectors. It is important to note that TCI specified the power and ground must be run directly from the battery, and that no other systems should tie into these power or ground feeds for power sources of their own. Also since this is a computer controlled harness, tach signal must come from a tachometer drive module or ignition box, not from the coil. All wiring should be routed as far away from ignition system or other electrical components as possible to avoid electronic noise interference, which could affect the unit’s performance, hence why we mounted it under the seat.

The harness plugs directly into the connection on our 4L80E transmission. There is also a connection four our throttle position sensor. This sensor is mounted on the passenger side of the engine bay and connected to the carb linkage. It is necessary for the control system to know where the throttle position is.

We connected the blue wire to our Racepak SmartWire so that we can choose between manual and automatic shifting modes. Our TCI Outlaw shifter is equipped with two momentary buttons on the shift handle. These buttons are built into the grip area and allow us to shift up or down with a simple click when in manual mode. A pretty cool feature whether on the street or the track. The system is also compatible with TCI’s paddle shifter setup if owners prefer to go that route. The red wire in the harness connects to the button for shifting down, while the yellow wire is for the button that controls shifting up to the next gear.

Left: We now select 4L80E as our transmission type. Center Left: We then enter our rear tire size. Center Right: Since we're using our Racepak SmartWire and Racepak dash in this car we must select the proper speedometer sensor output signal. For our application it is 16,000 Pulses Per Mile, or PPM. Far Right: We now enter our ring and pinion gear ratio which is 3.70

There is also an economy mode trigger wire that we connected to our SmartWire system. This changes the shift firmness and timing of the gear changes in automatic mode, to more comfortable parameters for cruising patterns. It’s nice for those lazy afternoon cruises, but we can go right back to the wild side with the simple flip of a switch.

Easy Setup

With all of the connections made and checked we simply connect the hand held unit to the cigarette lighter (or the plug can be cut off and wired to a switched 12 volt source) and the EZ-TCU, turn your ignition key to on, then follow the on screen prompts and instructions. The EZ-TCU will develop a basic strategy based on the answers to some simple questions in the setup wizard.

The EZ-TCU also allows us to customize the transmission tune via the handheld controller if we so desire. This could benefit us at the track if we think there’s something to be gained ET wise in the shift strategies or on the street in further adjusting our transmission settings for more comfort or better street manners. All of these settings are changed via the handheld controller and are based on load, speed, throttle position, and RPM.

Left: We now enter our Maximum shift RPM, this is for automatic operation the highest point you want a shift to occur. Center Left: Make sure the throttle is closed/idle, the EZ-TCU uses this as a key calibration parameter and part of the critical TPS reference signal. Center Right: We will now calibrate wide open throttle. This should be done inside the car, engine off, with the accelerator pedal to the floor. This will ensure the most accurate TPS reading. Far Right: This message is displayed during both the idle and wide open throttle calibrations, do not fluctuate the pedal during this time or an incorrect reading could be recorded.

Once all the settings are finalized we can take the car for a test drive and see how it performs. Adjustments can be made via the handheld controller if needed, although for no we’ll leave it as is. The handheld unit can be stored in the car’s glove box, or could even be installed to act as a secondary dash. It can display all manner of data about transmission operation. Some of the info it’s capable of displaying includes speed in MPH, transmission temperature, current gear selected and line pressure.

With our transmission squared away, project BTB is one step closer to hitting the street and strip for some full throttle passes. We’ve got piece of mind knowing we have a transmission that can handle the kind of horsepower we’re throwing at it. We also have some comfort in knowing that after a long day on the track we can simply switch the car to full auto and economy mode and cruise back home in comfort.

Ford’s sporty youth car, the timeless and enduring Mustang, will be 50 in another year. Because the Mustang has been so popular in all of its many forms through the years, aftermarket companies like Lokar Performance Products have paid very close attention to what people want.

In this tech review, we’ll be taking a look at Lokar Performance Products’ billet aluminum throttle pedal assembly for classic 1965-70 Mustangs on our Power Automedia project car known as “Biting The Billitt.” This pedal conversion kit looks fabulous and functions very well because it completely replaces your Mustang’s factory-installed throttle linkage with crisp cable function and light throttle effort. And because it’s suspended from your Mustang’s firewall, your right foot has good mechanical advantage and enhanced control. This means less driver fatigue coupled with great looks against fresh carpet.

Throttling Up…

Beginning in 1969, Ford went to a factory throttle cable and continued with the suspended heel and toe pedal system, which was safer and smoother. The problem with aging cable operated throttle systems is a frayed and binding cable, which tends to hang up as it wears, making it frustrating and unsafe.

Removal of Ford's antiquated linear throttle rod, spring, and bellcrank takes about 30-60 minutes using simple hand tools. You will need a 3/8-inch socket to get the throttle assembly and a #1 Phillips screwdriver to remove the accelerator pedal. Be advised the Phillips screw can be a bear to get out. Soak the screw with WD-40 in advance.

What makes the Lokar throttle pedal conversion kit a great value is aesthetics and function. For 1965-68 model Mustangs, this pedal assembly plugs right into the stock accelerator pedal pass-through in your Mustang’s firewall. At the attachment point is where the throttle cable passes through. For 1969-70 cars, it’s is a simple bracket affair that bolts right to your Mustang’s firewall and uses the factory cable pass-through.

The Lokar throttle pedal conversion kit is made from 6061-T6 billet aluminum and CNC machined for an exceptional appearance. Delrin bushings provide a smooth operation. What’s more, you can order this kit in black or brushed aluminum to suit your own tastes.

Cable Me…

Exceptionally smooth throttle function comes from Lokar’s line of Hi-Tech throttle cable kits that tie the throttle pedal and carburetor together for a slick demonstration of form and function. Lokar throttle cable kits are available in braided stainless, black stainless, or with a black housing. The nice thing about Lokar’s cable system is its compatibility with factory or Lokar throttle pedal packages.

“The advantage of Lokar’s billet throttle pedal and cable system is the Teflon-lined cable system, which is safer and smoother,” Brian Downard, Vice President of Sales & Marketing at Lokar, tells us. “This is certainly a better system than even Ford’s original cable system because it won’t stick or bind. It’s also made entirely right here in the USA.”

Lokar's throttle pedal system for the 1965-68 Mustang simply plugs right into the stock throttle pedal pass through. Hold the assembly from inside while a helper runs down these Allen screws from the engine compartment.

As you can see in this series of images, the Lokar plate is mounted to the firewall using a pair of allen head bolts. The allen bolts go through the plate on the cabin side and holds the throttle pedal assembly in place.

Easy Installation

If you’re working with a 1965-68 Mustang, you have a simple suspended accelerator pedal and linear movement mechanical throttle linkage to disconnect and remove. The greatest challenge is removing the accelerator pedal screw and spring, which may involve WD-40 and a lot of tenacity because these screws are normally frozen after four decades of use. If a large Phillips screwdriver won’t get the pedal screw out, vice-grips will.

Though the Lokar billet throttle pedal assembly and cable system are separate, they work together to give your Mustang crisp throttle response. If you have a 1965-68 Mustang, pedal installation is easy from the inside with a helper on the engine side of the firewall. You begin by inserting the billet throttle pedal assembly and have your helper install the cap and Allen screws. Simply use a thread locker on those Allen screws.

If you’re working with a 1969-70 Mustang with the suspension pedal and cable system, Lokar’s billet throttle pedal bolts to the firewall where the factory pedal assembly was, which means you don’t even need a helper for this one.

Engine/Transmission Control

Lokar’s Hi-Tech throttle cables afford you a new sense of engine and transmission control because there’s never been a smoother way to operate engine throttle and automatic transmission modulation. Whether your classic Mustang has a vintage C4, C6 or FMX, or a more contemporary Automatic Overdrive, the Hi-Tech cable system works with all of these transmissions. What’s more, it will also work with the fuel-injected SEFI 5.0L High Output engines as well – so you’re covered no matter how you’ve modified your Mustang.

The Lokar Hi-Tech cable system arrives ready to modify and install. The cable is a cut-to-fit arrangement and is fully adjustable for nearly any application out there. All you have to do is determine proper length, allow enough room for adjustment, and install your Lokar Hi-Tech cable system. Once you have installed the Hi-Tech cable system, all you have to do is adjust pedal height to your comfort, then, make sure a floored pedal also means a wide-open throttle. Transmission modulation (kickdown) cable tension depends upon your type. If you have the Ford AOD, follow Ford’s directions carefully including the use of a pressure gauge.

Before cutting cable to fit, allow yourself room for adjustment. You can always cut more. If you cut too much, you're stuck with the result.

If your Mustang has an automatic transmission, you have two cables - throttle and transmission kickdown - to work with. The throttle cable should be adjusted to where the pedal reaches the floor and you have a wide-open throttle. At the same time, the kickdown cable should be at full tension with a C4, C6, or FMX transmission at wide-open throttle to get a downshift. If you have an AOD retrofit, follow Ford's instructions on cable tension and control pressure or you may risk transmission damage. The Lokar brake pedal installation is an easy bolt-on, involving drilling small pilot holes where appropriate, then a larger 3/8-inch hole. From there, use a thread locker on the screw threads.

This is the 1969-70 Mustang throttle pedal, which is a direct bolt-on to replace your factory pedal assembly. Check out the brushed aluminum foot rest. Put this guy right next to your dimmer switch to give you something else to do with your left foot.

Lokar Performance Products demonstrates you can enjoy a nice combination of direct bolt-in form and function with its billet aluminum throttle pedal kits coupled with smooth cable operation enabling you to thrust your vintage ride into the 21st Century.

We’re getting close to the end of the build on our 1,000-horsepower, 1965 Mustang project car, dubbed Biting The Bullitt. In past articles we’ve done installations on an extensive parts list, one that is necessary to withstand the power this machine will be putting to the ground. We built a killer 427 cubic-inch Paxton-supercharged engine with the help of QMP Racing and Dart Heads, who supplied the foundation for our build with their Iron Eagle block and Pro 1 225cc CNC cylinder heads. We’ve also beefed up the suspension with the help of Strange Engineering and Calvert Racing Suspensions and put in a complete TCI front clip.

In the latest update on our project, we’re getting to the final stages of construction and in this article, we’ll be installing a complete fuel system with pumps and filters from FUELAB and lines and fittings from Aeroquip. We’ll also install an awesome aluminum radiator from the cooling experts at AFCO Racing and a fan package from the team at Derale Performance. We’ll cover the tech behind the products along with a number of installation notes, and we hope you’ll follow along with us as we get BTB ready for its debut soon.

As you can see we don't have a ton of room to work with here. We had to stuff a radiator and fan into the space between the crank pulley and the body.

Cooling Off

Engines generate heat as a byproduct of their operation – this is a known fact. How to get rid of that heat effectively has been the challenge of hot rodders for years, as they have added horsepower, and as a byproduct, heat, to their machines. They’ve built air-dams, custom fan shrouds, cut extra holes in the nose of the car to aid airflow, and tried just about everything they can in the name of cooling efficiency.

We decided to get serious about cooling the car off and investigated the option of a custom radiator. Although there are often width and height limitations, those can be overcome by properly sizing the tanks, core sizes and quantities, according to AFCO Racing’s Eric Saffell. When it was time to tackle this part of the project, his knowledge and expertise were invaluable as he walked us through the process of ordering one of AFCO’s custom aluminum radiators.

Saffell explained, “It would be nice for me to be able to give a formula that says if you have X amount of horsepower then you need Y square inches of radiator. The issue with that is that there are so many different engines on the market and they all have different cooling requirements – a Ford engine in this project car may need more cooling than a similar engine combination in a different body style, or an LS engine – those are different in terms of cooling requirements also – then you throw in a power-adder and it becomes more complex. I’d love to be able to make it simple, but it would do everyone a disservice to suggest that.” Bigger isn’t always better, but in this case, cooling a 1000-horsepower engine in the older Mustang, we went with the largest radiator we could physically fit into the car.

Prior to ordering our radiator, we needed to determine exactly how much real estate we had to work with. After going through their custom-build process, AFCO Racing sent us this beautiful radiator to solve our concerns. Like a glove, the radiator sits perfectly on top of our framerails. We had AFCO install dowels on each side in which we ran into the frame with a rubber grommet. Welded bungs on the front side of the end tanks secure to the core support.

Once we had the dimensions we were working with, we calculated what kind of core we’d need – how many fins per inch we needed to achieve for what we believed the airflow would be over the radiator’s surface. “More fins are not necessarily better, either – if there are too many it can slow down the airflow to where the radiator is not effective as a cooling mechanism,” Saffell explained. We filled out the build sheet, talked more with Saffell about our goals, and a short time later the box arrived with a beautiful radiator inside.

“Since the plan for this car is to be used in a street/strip application, we have to use a core configuration with a fin design that gives you a pretty wide array of cooling across all of the potential operating conditions. Although we do have many different direct-fit musclecar radiators to fit a wide range of vehicles already on the shelf, when we talk with someone with a specific need, we’ve got a build sheet that we use to come up with the right radiator for their project.

“We take the time, work with the customer, and nail down all of the critical data on the car – horsepower level, intended use, does the radiator need extra bungs welded in, how it needs to be mounted in the car, and then develop the radiator that will bolt in in the way the customer expects it to, and perform in the way that the customer expects it to,” said Saffell.

Picking our Derale Fans

With the heat transfer portion of the project down, we needed to ensure there was enough airflow through the radiator to maximize efficiency. When it came time to select the rest of the cooling system pieces, we went to the fan experts at Derale Performance, where Troy Wood was happy to help us select the proper cooling system enhancements to make our time on the street and at the track a worry-free experience.

Derale Performance sent us a pair of radiators - a 16-inch unit for pushing, and a 12-inch unit for pulling behind the radiator. These two units allowed us to package everything neatly within the tight confines of our engine bay.

Much like the folks at AFCO, the team from Derale Performance tries to take a whole-car approach to cooling. Wood explained, “On an existing build, we ask the customer about their environment. Where do they live geographically, and what conditions are they seeing? How hot does the vehicle get under worse-case scenarios? What are their current cooling system components? This gives us an indication of the nature and severity of the issue. A Small-block Chevy 383 stroker motor in a Chevelle will run much hotter in a ’32 Ford as evacuating ambient heat is much more difficult.”

A tougher issue is the enthusiast who’s building a car that has yet to be fired up. But going through the question process is much the same and we do have a pretty good idea based on past history what will likely make the most sense.

We are trying to keep a lot of horses cool and since that requires lots of air movement, Wood felt it was a good idea to run both a pusher fan on the front of the radiator, along with a puller fan on the back side to maximize heat transfer through the aluminum radiator core. Derale shipped out a 16-inch version of their reversible Tornado Series Fan [PN 16516] for us to use as a “pusher” in front of the radiator along with a 12-inch Tornado Series [PN 16012] fan to use as a ‘puller’ on the engine side, and one of their dual-fan thermostatic controllers [PN 16789].

On the front side of the radiator, we had a decent amount of room, but there’s also plenty of real estate taken up by our massive TCI transmission cooler. The 16-inch Tornado fan handled the job with just enough room to spare. It features a 225-watt, high-torque sealed motor and draws only 18.4 amps for operation. More importantly, it will push 2,175 cfm of air to help with cooling the radiator.

Derale offers a number of different fan options to fit nearly any application. We're going to have over 3,000 cfm of air movement with the two fans we selected. The Dual Fan controller has numerous features, including an adjustable thermostat that staggers the two fans at separate temperatures. Center: We used a thread-in fitting to measure temperature at the radiator tank. Right: You can see how limited our real estate is in the nose of the Bullitt.

With the tight confines of our engine bay, we were very limited as to what we could do on the engine side of the radiator. Initially we tried one of Derale’s 14-inch Tornado pullers for some extra reserve, but it was just too close to the crankshaft pulley assembly for our liking, so we installed the 12-inch version.

This fan can be reversed and used in a push or pull application and comes with a 180-degree ‘on’/165-degree ‘off’ thermostat kit. The thermostat kit has both a thread-in water jacket probe and a push-in radiator probe, wiring harness and all mounting hardware, although we did not use these items due to our installation of Derale’s fan controller.  The Tornado electric fan in this configuration will flow 880 cfm, giving us nearly 3,000 cfm of airflow over our radiator’s cooling fins. Bring it on, SoCal heat!

We’ve also installed Derale’s High Amperage Adjustable Dual Fan Controller, which gives us great control over the pair of cooling fans. It has an adjustable turn-on temperature from 150 to 240 degrees and has a number of neat features. For instance, it will activate the first fan at the pre-set temperature, then turns on the second fan when the temperature rises ten degrees over the pre-set point for the first fan’s activation.

The turn-off temperatures are pre-set at 10 degrees below the turn-on temperatures for each fan, making operation effortless for the driver. There’s even an AC override circuit, and the controller will handle 35 amps per fan – plenty of juice for what we need.

At the end of our conversation, Wood wanted to add the following notes, “A large engine stuffed into a small engine bay is a recipe for excessive heat buildup. Add exhaust headers and the traditional array of performance products to the mix and you can quickly overwhelm any cooling system regardless of price – cooling claims by manufacturers notwithstanding. Under these circumstances, it’s better to focus on the entire drivetrain and systematically reduce heat when and wherever possible.”

Wood went on to explain, “An engine oil cooler, power steering cooler, fuel cooler and transmission cooler all work together to reduce ambient heat, and reduce the load on the cooling system. The best part is they are very inexpensive and the most cost effective insurance policy available.”

The last item in our cooling system install is a simple one – Royal Purple’s Purple Ice Radiator Coolant Additive. Purple Ice works by reducing the surface tension of the coolant, allowing more heat to transfer through the radiator. It also helps prevent overheating and corrosion, and has the added benefit of helping to reduce hot spots that can occur in the engine. Purple Ice can be used with both 50/50 and straight water applications.

Heating Up

The reason engines generate the heat that needs to be cooled off, as we discussed in the previous few paragraphs, is that they are basically keeping eight tiny explosions in check – throwing fuel on the fire, lighting it, putting it out, and doing it all over again – thousands of times per minute, all in an effort to spin the engine harder and make more power. And without a high-quality pump to provide said fuel, there would be no fire, no heat, and thus, no power harnessed.

So when it came time for us to select fuel delivery components, we went straight to the team at FUELAB for one of their digital Prodigy fuel pumps [PN 41402] that features a brushless drive mechanism that provides a durable and efficient package that’s reasonably-sized.

We spoke with FUELAB’s Brian Paitz, who explained the hidden technology behind the Prodigy pump, “There are two distinctly different microprocessors in the electronics package of the Prodigy pump. One of them is designed to simply apply power to the motor so that it spins. The other processor is used only for pump speed control – which is a very unique feature our pumps have over other designs.”

FUELAB's Prodigy High Efficiency Fuel Pump flows 140 gph at 45 psi. It will be perfect in our blow-through application. FUELAB also sent us a pair of filters, a 100-micron unit for pre-pump use and a 10-micron unit post-pump.

“You also have the possibility of multiple points of fuel flow thanks to that second microprocessor,” he explained. The pump speed controller is wired via the use of an input signal – if the speed input measures less than two volts of juice, the pump operates in reduced-speed mode. Give it three to 18 volts, and it operates in full-speed mode. The pump can also read a pulsed signal from some aftermarket engine management systems to operate variably. We are running the speed control option through our Racepak SmartWire to trigger once we get into boost.

The pump’s internals feature a high-efficiency, sling-vane, positive-displacement pump that relies on a carbon, low-mass, pressure-balanced rotor to supply enough fuel for our street-driven 1,000-horsepower machine. The housing has an internal shape that’s optimized to keep the pressure steady and in addition, helps to keep the pump’s operating noise to a minimum.

As we mentioned, the motor is a brushless design that won’t wear out, nor will it corrode, and the “wet” design of the pump keeps leaks away – there are no shaft seals to wear out and present you with problems down the road. The design of the pump lends itself to a small size – it’s less than three pounds, 6.9 inches long with a slim 2.63-inch diameter – you can fit one just about anywhere, and with its 140 gph rating at 45 psi, it will support up to 1,300 horsepower in the right application. The -12AN inlet and -10AN outlet on the pump means plenty of fuel volume can pass through these walls on the way to becoming fumes.

A blow-through application like ours makes fuel pump selection critical. In order to make sure there is adequate fuel delivery, there has to be an extra pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost in order to get the fuel to flow past the needle and seat in the carburetor. That means that the fuel pump has to be able to provide higher pressure than a typical carbureted application.

In other words, a typical carbureted street car might see pressures in the 6-8 psi range, but our blow-through supercharged car will need fuel pressure to be somewhere in the 25 PSI range at full boost – thus our use of an EFI-style pump. It ensures that we’ll have the fuel we need at the pressure required in order to provide acceptable fuel flow and volume to make the supercharger sing.

Assisting us with the task of controlling fuel delivery is one of FUELAB’s return-style High Flow Fuel Pressure Regulators [PN 56502], which ensures that we won’t have any fuel-overheating issues by running the excess fuel back to the tank. The regulator features two -10AN inlet ports and one -10AN return port, maximizing fuel-processing capabilities, and it is set up to raise pressure at a 1:1 correlation with boost, ensuring that the flow will be there when necessary. This heavy-duty regulator has a fine-pitch adjusting screw to help get your fuel pressure exactly where you want it, along with a 1/8-inch gauge port and 1/8-inch pressure reference port to monitor boost and help the regulator raise pressure accordingly.

Left: FUELAB's High Flow Fuel Pressure Regulator is set up with a 1:1 rate of rise for boost and has -10AN inlets and a -10AN return. Middle - The 10-micron post-filter was installed on this nifty bracket on the frame. Right: We installed the pre-filter directly onto the pump assembly with a union fitting.

But you can’t have a fuel pump without having some way to filter the fuel, and with that in mind, Paitz recommended one of their Inline Filters [PN 82824] for us to install prior to the fuel pump. The 82824 supports 200 gph, has a 75-micron pre-filter, a -12AN port on each end and a stainless-steel, 5-inch filtration element that has an extremely low pressure drop. The housing is internally radiused to smooth out the flow and minimize the pressure drop as fuel flows from one end to the other. The stainless element is cleanable or replaceable, and it’s even compatible with all fuels including diesel and methanol.  

On the aft side of the pump, we’ll be using another one of FUELAB’s Inline Filters, [PN 81803]. This -10AN in/-10AN out filter will support up to 200 gph, is also compatible with all fuels, and uses a cellulose 10-micron element. The element is commonly used and disposable, yet keeps the smallest, potentially harmful particles out of your engine. Both filters include low profile saddle-clamp brackets and are backed by FUELAB’s two-year warranty.

Transferring Liquid

This handy chart from Aeroquip will assist you in selecting proper hose diameter for a given flow rate.

 The last segment in our update on Biting The Bullitt covers sizing the fuel system’s plumbing components properly for our blow-through carburetor application.

We’re using hose and fittings from Aeroquip Performance Products. Their StartLite Racing Hose has a flame-resistant Nomex/Kevlar weave cover and can handle liquid transfer for fluids ranging from -45 degrees to over 300 degrees, making it perfect for most applications. It has a smooth-bore inner tube and is up to 45% lighter than a typical steel braided hose, helping us to save somewhere in the neighborhood of fifteen pounds over the entire length of the car when compared to stainless-braid. In addition, it will handle all fuels and is very flexible to aid in tight installations.

StartLite is also available in AN sizes from -4 to -20 to cover just about any fluid plumbing task you might have, not just fuel. According to Aeroquip Performance Products’ Mike Rasnick, “StartLite will handle all fuels – gasoline, methanol, E85, and even nitromethane. It will also handle lubrication, coolant, and air, basically any plumbing need. These are designed for weight savings; you’re going to start your project out light and this is the hose to do it with.”

On the connection side of things, we’re working with Aeroquip’s one-piece, reusable aluminum fittings in black finish, which when combined with the black woven StartLite hose, complements the look under the hood. The one-piece design allows for superior flow and eliminates two of the potential leak points that can occur on other styles of fittings.

They come in both a swivel and non-swivel design and are a compression-style fitting that is great for use in performance applications. There is a pilot nipple on the fitting that aids in installation and prevents damage to the inner tube as the fitting is put together. The nipple also helps to promote seal integrity between the fitting and the hose.

Aeroquip Performance Products is part of global automotive conglomerate Eaton Corporation, and is quite proud of the fact that they are the only fitting manufacturer that also produces their own hose products, which allows them to engineer every one of their fittings to fit their hose properly. Each style of racing hose they offer is tested for strength and durability befitting that of an OEM-level manufacturer.

Top Left: Aeroquip's one-piece reusable aluminum fittings come in a variety of finishes and dimensions. Top Right: StartLite Racing Hose is manufactured with a Nomex/Kevlar woven cover that is flame-retardant and provides much better abrasion protection. Bottom Left: We found the hose and fitting assemblies easy to put together - say no to chewed-up fingertips! Bottom Right: The pilot nipple on the end of the fitting prevents damage to the end of the hose during construction.

Rasnick explained, “We are able to leverage all of the product knowledge throughout Eaton Corporation. We’ve got industrial division and an aerospace division that use hydraulic hose for everything in addition to our automotive customers – there is a large pool of knowledge within our companies. 100 percent of our product has been engineered, tested, and qualified. Since all of this hose and these fittings are connected to so much money, we need the enthusiast, our customers, to feel confident that our products will perform as required.” Since we’re looking for trouble-free when it comes time to drive BTB, we’re down with that.

In conclusion, we’ve learned that designing fluid transfer and cooling systems isn’t as easy as as just picking parts out of a catalog, at least not when you’re trying to make the kind of power we’re trying to make with our Bullitt project. The tech help from each manufacturer has been invaluable to ensuring this project works as advertised. At this point, the car is actually running, although the supercharger is not installed yet. We’ll have another update soon!

Our 1965 Ford Mustang, known as Project “Biting The Bullitt” is moving right along towards its end goal of terrorizing the streets and strips of southern California. Much of the grunt work, including the construction of the 1,000 horsepower, 427-inch small block, is out of the way, and that’s allowed us to move on to the other essentials needed to complete the project and get it up and running.

As those familiar with the project are aware, Biting The Bullitt features a Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger atop an AED blow-through carburetor on the mean little 427. We’ve utilized Paxton’s polished, show-quality PowerHat and polished tubing to connect the supercharger outlet to the carburetor, but now we need to focus on getting fresh air into said supercharger.

There are countless supercharger and intake inlet pipes and filters out there on the market, but the vast majority are pre-manufactured for specific engines and engine compartment layouts. Because our ’65 Mustang is very much a one-off project, we needed something more customizable – and it just so happens that AIRAID produces such a system.

Shown here is the Master UBI kit from AIRAID, with a filter, hoses, clamps, and the works. The tubing is shipped as a formed assembly that you simply cut using a typical show saw to cut to your desired lengths.

AIRAID offers their U-Build-It intake systems with the custom car builder and the perfectionist in mind. If you’re struggling to find an air intake that fits your particular engine compartment layout, or you’d rather not settle for something that “sort of” fits, the U-Build-It is just the product you’ve been looking for. the U-Build-It allows you to create the air intake specific to the vehicle to your exact measurements and desires.

The UBI In Detail

AIRAID designed the U-Build-It (or “UBI”) kit as a be-all air intake system, consisting of multiple angles and straights, which the end user cuts and lays out as desired. As such, the number of intake variations are virtually endless.

Shown here is a diagram of the U-Build-It kit, showing the layout and measurements of the tubing offered in the Master kit. We used the 4-inch Master kit II with 700-469 9-inch filter, PN 101-400

“Where the UBI is really beneficial is when you’re building an older vehicle with a crate engine, a newer vehicle with an engine swap, or anything that’s really custom where a traditional air intake system won’t bolt right up,” says AIRAID’s David Edelman. “When you need something above and beyond, the UBI gives you everything you need.”

The UBI kit is available in separate peices, as tubes only, or as a master kit that includes a premium AIRAID air filter, couplers, clamps, brackets, and all the necessary hardware. Whether you need the whole package or just an essential component, AIRAID offers each of these options to help offset the cost of purchasing the master kit should you not need it.

The master kit – which we’ll be forming and installing under the hood of our Mustang – comes as a one-piece, pre-formed tube consisting of one 45-degree, one 30-degree, one 60-degree, and two 90-degree tubes. There are then straight tubes measuring 24-, 4-, 10-, 8-, and 7-inches. AIRAID also offers the kit in tubing circumferences ranging from 3-inches to 6-inches to provide sufficient airflow for everything from your typical economy car up to something pushing 1,000-plus horses as we are.

The pipe is designed to be cut to your exact measurements depending on where you want or need the pipes to navigate through the engine compartment and where you want the air filter to rest. Once the pipes are cut to spec, the supplied silicone couplers connect the entire air intake tubing system together.

The UBI pipe is made from a strong and durable polyethylene material that, according to Edelman, “…is built with the same quality as our traditional AIRAID intake systems that we engineer for specific vehicles.”

Adding to the customization, virtually any of AIRAID’s high-flowing, high-performance cone air filters are offered with and will connect to the UBI kit. “We have filters from six inches long to nine inches long for varied horsepower degrees, from something as low as 200 horsepower to 2,000. Whatever it is, we’ve got filters that can accommodate those needs and get the maximum amount of power from those specific engines.”

Continued Edelman, “The UBI can go as far as the mind can travel, and what you can develop is really up to the end user. We’ve seen some really, really cool  designs and some guys have done some great custom stuff with the UBI.” For those that simply need more, AIRAID does offers additional components and tubing “a la carte”, so theoretically if you need another piece to complete your puzzle, you’re not left out in the dark.

Size Matters

As described above, AIRAID offers the UBI kits in sizes from 3- to 6-inches, and selection is dependent upon your power levels and of course what you can feasibly fit under the hood of your vehicle.

According to Edelman, 3-1/2-inch and 4-inch pipe are perfect for most average vehicles out there on the road and will flow enough air for “at least a 500-600 horsepower engine.”

Step one is, of course, to cut the UBI tubing down to size. The formed material actually ships with cutlines for reference, so you don't have to go to the trouble of marking your cuts. Either a hand saw or a powered Sawzall or similar will do the trick.

Once you get a little more radical with bigger horsepower numbers, bumping up to 5-inch will provide the airflow necessary to keep up with your power adder and flow demands. Edelman describes the 5-inch kit (Part No. 101-501) as “about a large as you’ll want to go with a high performance vehicle.”

The 6-inch kits are more reserved for semi tractors and large diesel trucks pushing a good bit of boost through a turbocharger.

’65 Mustang Install

For our application, the type of power we’re planning to make, and the size of the Paxton supercharger inlet, we’ve chosen a five-inch kit for our Mustang.

The supercharger has been positioned to the drivers left of the engine, towards the front of the block, with the inlet facing to the rear. Our goal is to place the air filter behind the left front headlight, so all we’ll need from the master kit is a pair of 90-degree corners and a straight to rout the tubing though the fender cover to our intended location.

Here you can see the final design we've created, using two 90's and a small straight section (left), followed by the finished product plumbed up to the supercharger inlet on one and situated through the fender over on the other. The red lines you see plumbed into the air intake pipe is for the Snow Performance water/methanol injection that we're going to be running on the Mustang. One line is plumbed in before the supercharger to cool the incoming air, while another is plumbed into the PowerHat tubing between the supercharger and the carburetor.

With the kit all unboxed, we’re ready to get to chopping on the five-inch tubing. For this, a simple Sawzall or similar saw will do the trick. We cut the tubing along the provided and suggested cut lines, providing ourselves a pair of 90′s and straight sections X inches in length. From here, installing the kit is a simple matter of using the supplied rubber boots and a pair of clamps at each break to connect the straights to the 90′s. The filter, filter adapter, and the filter mounting brackets to secure the filter to the body are all supplied and easily installed.

With our ’65 Mustang serving as a prime example, you can see that AIRAID’s UBI kit is truly a do-all-be-all kit for your one-off or more specific engine and engine compartment needs. It’s got the clean looks and professional design that any more vehicle-centric kit offers, but with the priceless bonus of complete customization. If you’ve ever been unable to find a kit that’s laid out just the way you wished, this is probably the kit you were looking for.

If you’re dealing with components that have fluid supplied to them such as fuel, oil, or coolant this can be a messy task. This often requires you to take the necessary precautions during your work. Further, if you’re having to disconnect and reconnect aluminum fittings, doing so can always run the risk of damaging or stripping threads, or rounding off the hex with the wrong wrench. Doing so necessitates further parts replacements, and costs you more down time. Now, thanks to Jiffy-Tite there is an easier solution to removing plumbing off your vehicle.

We will be converting the fuel tank return, fuel log feed, and coolant overflow lines to Jiffy-Tite's quick disconnect fittings.

Faster, Cleaner Solutions

Socket and Plug

The socket and plug fittings work together, utilizing brass valves and stainless steel ball bearings. These quick disconnect fittings are handy for components or connections that require frequent service. They can be ordered with or without valves to prevent spills when disconnected.

Jiffy-Tite fittings can make servicing components that are often removed a bit easier. Their quick connect fittings are compatible with virtually all fluids and oils.

Another advantage  is Jiffy-Tite’s internal valving option, which prevents leaks when a fluid line is disconnected. This is similar to the principle of the quick change fittings used on air tools. The combination of valving and quick disconnect allows owners to disconnect components without creating fluid spills, or risking stripping or crossing threads, or rounding the hex off of an expensive fitting.

All Jiffy-Tite fittings are constructed from aircraft grade aluminum; the quick disconnects utilize stainless steel ball bearings, and valved fittings use brass valves. Fittings can be ordered compatible for use with Alcohol as well by specifying the “Burna N” seals. They even have fittings with seals compatible for use with nitromethane.

When connected, a valved fitting will allow fluid to flow bidirectional through both the socket end and the plug end. When you disconnect a fitting, fluid flow is stopped at both ends, thus preventing leakage. The design of the valving system also offers minimal flow restriction, so performance of the system that is utilizing the Jiffy-Tite fittings will not be affected. The stainless ball bearings add durability and also allow the socket end to easily be reattached to the plug.

The Quick Connect design is ideal for lines that service components needing frequent maintenance, tuning or removal.

Fittings are available in a wide variety of sizes and can take the place of any –AN, or NPT pipe thread size, in virtually any location. Sockets can be ordered in anodized black, or gold. Additionally, all fittings are approved for use in NHRA, IHRA, and SCCA, with a maximum operating pressure of 200 psi, making them ideal for nearly any fluid system on a car; with the exception of brake fluid (where pressures exceed 200 psi). The maximum operating temperature is 350° Fahrenheit, which again far exceeds what most applications would ever see from a temperature standpoint.

If you require the need of a quick disconnect fitting without the need for a valved system, for instance a component or system that needs to be quickly drained, non valved connections are also available. All Jiffy-Tite fittings are compatible with most stainless braided line, or push-to-lock type lines, except lines that utilize Teflon. And we’d remiss without mentioning that all Jiffy-Tite products are made in the USA.

Installation

We recently got our hands on some Jiffy-Tite fittings and upgraded a few areas on our project Biting The Bullit ’65 Mustang. We installed these in the fuel and coolant system to make servicing those systems faster, and easier, while reducing mess in the shop, and at the track.  Upgrading the fuel system to this type of connection should also improve safety in the pits, by minimizing the amount of raw fuel that escapes should we need to service the carb, filter, or pump. Jiffy-Tite fittings install just like any typical aluminum fitting that most of us are already familiar with. The biggest difference we noticed is that they are a bit bulkier than a standard aluminum fitting. This means that it is necessary to check for adequate clearance before installing them on your application.

Jiffy-Tite fittings can replace virtually any -AN or NPT connection fitting, with a minimal flow restriction.

Fuel System

We installed a plug end on the supply side of our fuel tank sump (Part# 52812), and a gold anodized socket end on the fuel supply line (Part# 51612E). With the quick disconnect system in place we will now be able to disconnect our supply line from the fuel tank without having to drain the tank. This also comes in handy at the track should we need to replace or service our fuel pump or filter. A filled fuel tank will not be able to gravity feed raw fuel out of the lines as we try to make a change to a component in the system. This avoids a potentially dangerous fuel spill and saves us money on lost fuel.

(Left) Our fuel supply line at the sump with standard -AN fittings. (Center) The Jiffy-Tite plug fitting installed on the sump. (Right) The Jiffy-Tite socket installed on the supply line and connected. With this setup we can disconnect the fuel line at the sump without worry of a fuel leak, plus we can quickly and easily reconnect it once we're finished with repairs or service.

Under the hood we installed a quick connect plug on the fuel rail return for our carburetor (Part# 52108) and a gold anodized socket on the return line (Part# 51410). This makes pulling the carburetor off or disconnecting it from the fuel system faster and, again, less messy. We can service the carburetor on or off the car now with minimal mess, and not have to worry so much about stuffing rags around the intake to catch the spilling fuel as we disconnect the line. This also takes some worry out of removing and reinstalling the return line. The quick connect fitting ensures that we have a good connection every time, so with it installed we won’t have to double or triple check for fuel leaks. We also won’t be sitting at a stop light, or the starting line, wondering if we got that connection tight enough while we were in the pits or garage.

(Left) Our original standard style -AN connection at the fuel supply rail for our carburetor. (Center) The Jiffy-Tite plug installed. (Right) The Jiffy-Tite quick connect installed on the line and connected to the plug. Notice how the Jiffy-Tite quick connects to require a bit more clearance than the standard -AN fittings.

Cooling System

We upgraded our coolant overflow tank to Jiffy-Tite connections as well. We replaced the connection from the radiator to the overflow tank with a non-valved disconnect. We used two non valved sockets (Part# 21604AE) with 90 degree fittings. We also used two non valved plugs (Part# 22802A). This will allow us to quickly disconnect, and drain the overflow tank if needed.

Jiffy-Tite's fitting utilized in the cooling system on our '65 Mustang project car.

Whether you’re a racer that needs to perform quick maintenance at the track or simply an enthusiast that would prefer to do away with wrenches and leaky fittings spilling fluids on your garage floor, these quick connect fittings from Jiffy-Tite really are a mechanics best friend. The valved fittings that they’ve developed make quick, easy, and clean work of attaching or removing the hoses and performing maintenance, and best of all, their designed with durability and longevity in mind. You simply can’t ask for much more than that in a product.

When we purchased the‘65 Mustang, it came with anemic inline six still installed in it. This was obviously not going to propel us to the 9-second quarter mile times that we want to run with the car. For anyone that knows about first generation Mustangs, it isn’t a secret that tolerances are tight when you put in a 351-based engine. In preparation for our 427, we eliminated the shock towers and installed a  TCI Mustang Custom IFS, which really helps open up the engine bay of our Mustang.

In a lot of circumstances, the rest of the car is designed around how much power the engine is going to produce. That’s why in addition to our TCI front suspension, we also went with a fresh 9-inch from Strange Engineering along with a complete rear suspension package from Calvert.  With the rest of the chassis ready to handle the power, we needed an engine that could compliment our Mustang. We were amped when we teamed up with local So Cal badasses QMP Racing to help us build and dyno our engine.

A Look at the Components

The goal of our engine build was to create something that any person could purchase off the shelf, and not require a horde of custom-made, one off parts. There are a few pieces that we wanted to go slightly overkill with to ensure that this engine would be completely streetable; while Dart’s Sportsman block would have done the job, we opted for their Iron Eagle mainly because we wanted the additional support of having full four bolt main caps on all five caps.

For the valvetrain and induction, we again wanted to keep things simple. While going with solid lifters would have made this engine capable of revving well over 7,000 rpm, our power calculations were 1,000 horsepower in the low 6,000 rpm range.  Thus, we stuck with a hydraulic roller valvetrain to reduce the need of servicing the engine after every run.

Dart's blocks come very close to finished. QMP performed a final line hone and bore before opening up the lifter bores for the brass bushings. The block was then painted and made its way back to the engine stand where the main studs and cam bearings were installed first.

A blow-through carburetor would be the choice here – to stray away from the complications of installing and tuning an EFI system. Paxton’s Renegade supercharger bracket mounts the supercharger off to the driver’s side and is extremely easy to work on – a pulley and belt change can be performed in a matter of minutes to change our boost level.

As we said before, 1,000 was the horsepower goal, which would help us ensure solid 9-second quarter mile times.  The Mustang doesn’t fit in any specific racing classes since we don’t have a stock-type front suspension, but with the new NMCA West series, we hope to make this a powerful contender in the True Street class.

Short Block

First and foremost, this engine build couldn’t have happened without help from our friends over at Dart Machinery. We opted for their baddest iron Ford block they offer – their tall deck Iron Eagle.”The Iron Eagle blocks have all the race-style features like dry sump provisions, full four bolt steel main caps on all five caps and oil restrictor previsions,” said Jack McInnis of Dart.  “It has the most built-in customization ability and strength out of all the blocks. This is the same block that Dan Millen used to support nearly 2,500hp with in his Super Street Mustang.”

Dart offers this block in 8.200, 9.200 and 9.500 inch deck heights, though maximum cubes was the goal, we selected the 9.500 deck block in a 4.125 bore. Add in our four inch stroke and alas we had our 427 cubic inches of displacement. Dart recommends a maximum bore of 4.165, though you might not want to go that big if it is a forced induction application. “For someone that doesn’t need all the bells and whistles, the Sportsman block is a really great bargain,” said McInnis. “For example, the Sportsman block still comes with steel main caps, though the first and last caps are two bolts.”

QMP checks the wrist pin bore and fills each piston top to ensure they are in spec...which they were. Also pictured are Total Seal's AP steel rings, which is the baddest rings you can get from Total Seal

Reinforced head bolt bosses are blind tapped to prevent leaks while extra thick decks prevent head gasket leaks. Also the block features Dart’s proven priority main oiling system that feeds the main bearings before being pumped to the cam. This system also promotes better oil pressure and does not need a high pressure pump.

The bottom end comes with large journal, 351 Cleveland mains and splayed billet steel four bolt main caps. Dart also offers billet aluminum main caps as an upgrade.

The rotating assembly starts with Ross Piston’s 4.125, 9:1 dish pistons that are based from a single piece of 2618 billet bar stock that has been heat treated and aged to a T61 condition, just like a fine wine. Again, we selected a set of Ross’ shelf pistons that doesn’t feature and 3D profiling for increased longevity of our street engine build.

They are wrapped with a set of file-fitted Total Seal AP steel rings which are among the flattest, tightest tolerance piston rings available. The pistons and rings were hung on a set of Eagle’s 6.200-inch length, 4340 H-beam connecting rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts. The rods have been surface treated with Eagle’s ESP process that is designed to help shed oil and increase horsepower.

To compliment the pistons and rods, we went with a Eagle 4340 forged, internally balanced, 4-inch stroke crankshaft that also features the ESP finishing process.

Superchargers put additional strain on the crankshaft, so QMP machined a second key in the crank that will be matched with our Innovators West dampener. After the machining, QMP checked the balance on the crank and it was spot on, not needing any additional drilling.

A properly matched oiling system is crucial to an engine’s survival. While we could have loaded up the car with a complete dry system (that is supported by our Dart block), we again wanted to keep things simple by retaining the stock-style wet sump.

The Melling high volume, standard pressure oil pump supplies the additional oil we need to lubricate our Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger while retaining standard pressure due to Dart’s priority main oil feeding design. The bottom end is covered up with a Canton extra capacity, rear sump oil pan that is perfect for a street/strip application and is secured with ARP fasteners. We chose the baffled rear sump pan to better compliment the suspension design with our TCI Custom IFS.

QMP machined a second key in our crank that was designed for our Innovators West Super Duty dampener. It is an all new design that sports an upgraded blower hub and larger 3/8-inch hub bolts. The hub is even so thick that it includes a new, thinner front main seal.

Video Overview of the Short Block Assembly

Long Block

A high flow cylinder head is paramount when trying to create a lot of horsepower, especially in a forced induction combination. Our cylinder head of choice was the Dart Pro 1 225cc, CNCed cylinder heads.”We first started doing CNC porting on cylinder heads in 1993, starting with Top Fuel HEMI heads,” said McInnis.

They feature full CNCed runners that flow a LOT of air, and a lot meaning 325 CFM on the intake and 235 CFM on the exhaust at .700 lift. The assembled heads come fitted with high quality components, including dual valve springs and titanium retainers, though you can get the heads bare if you have your own combination in mind. “What you are getting is a very good porting job for a very reasonable price,” explained McInnis.  “Custom port jobs are typically associated with very specific type of racing classes, and we give a port job for a wide range of applications that fits a wide spectrum of vehicle applications.”

QMP disassembled the heads to check the spring pressures, filled the combustion chambers to check their volume and flowed them. As you can see, Dart's CNC heads are beautifully crafted and finished before shipping to the customer.

Backing the Dart heads are a set of Crower’s extreme duty, 1.6 ratio, stainless steel shaft mount rockers. You might be thinking, “What’s simple about shaft mount rockers?” Well, Crower’s pieces are designed to work with the stock valvetrain geometry and aren’t anymore complex to install that a traditional stud-type lifter. Overkill when spinning 6,200 rpm? Possibly, but valvetrain deflection will now be the last thing on our mind.

The shaft mount rockers heavily resist flex under load while keeping the rotating weight low onto the valve. The needle bearing tip option further reduces resistance and valve guide wear.

Since our 427 is designed to see a lot street driving, we again turned to Crower for their hydraulic roller tie bar lifters. These lifters feature a redesigned body and bearing for superb longevity. Tying the rocker to the lifter is a Crower one piece 7.600 length push rod. These are beefy 3/8-inch diameter push rods with 5/16-inch ends that fit right up to the rocker and lifter, though we should note, a bit of clearancing was needed to fit in these hefty push rods.

We turned to Crower for our valvetrain components. Their hydraulic roller cam and lifters keep things low maintenance and living up to 6,500 RPM without any problems. The shaft mount rockers are extreme duty applications and can handle much more valvetrain stress than what we are throwing at them.

The Crower custom ground hydraulic roller camshaft features a 260/266 duration at .050, .619 lift and a 114 degree lobe separation. Capping off the heads are a set of Dart’s trick looking, fabricated aluminum valve covers.

A direct line of sight and a port volume large enough to flow the air you need is critical to a boosted application. We selected Edelbrock’s Super Victor intake manifold that features everything we are looking for. To enhance the intake manifold even further, Ford Performance Solutions hand ported our Super Victor for a smoother flow over the casting and boasts an additional 45 CFM of airflow.

For the remaining top and bottom parts we start with a Canton rear sump oil pan that will work perfectly with our TCI Custom IFS front suspension conversion. Innovators West balancer is extremely beefy and comes double keyed, ready to handle 2,000+ hp. Lastly, the devise controlling our air/fuel mixture is AED's 950 CFM blow-through carburetor.

Differences on a Forced Induction Carburetor

Providing the air/fuel mixture to the intake manifold is a AED 950 CFM blow-through carburetor. “Virtually every metering circuit is changed on our blow-through carburetors,” said John Dickey of AED. “Also the carburetor sizing can be reduced since you have a pressurized carburetor by around 10% from what you would need in a naturally aspirated combination.”

 

AED wet flows and designs their carburetors specific to a customer’s combination so that it performs the best it can right out of the box, on both the street and strip. “Each custom carburetor is wet flowed,” said Dickey.  “We go as far as wet flowing the primaries and secondaries separately.  So if a particular engine combination needs 1300 CFM of airflow to achieve its goal, we will start at around 300 CFM and go up to 650 CFM on each side of the carburetor, and work on the fuel curve accordingly.”

Acting as the glue to hold all our components together are a full line of ARP bolts and studs as well as Fel Pro and Cometic gaskets that were supplied by netgaskets.com

Ignition, Supercharger and Accessories

The spark comes from none other than MSD Ignition with their mechanical, billet body, pro race distributor. Accompanying the distributor is a set of MSD 8.5 MM plug wires. This setup will deliver all the power we need to make over 1,000 horsepower! Since we this is a blow-through application, we are relying heavily on MSD’s tried-and-true 7531 ignition box and HVC-II coil. The 7531 will allow us to dial in the ignition timing based of the boost it sees from the three-bar MAP sensor. Additionally, we can use its ignition retard switch wires as a safety measure for our Snow Performance water/methanol kit in case our tank were to run dry.

MSD supplied their race proven 7531 ignition box that will allow us to create an adjustable timing map that will allow us to dial in the Mustang's launch. Holding the entire engine together are none other than ARP fasteners.

For our power adder we turned to Paxton and their all-new NOVI-2500 supercharger. It features a redesigned compressor wheel that allows it to produce over 1300 hp at 30 PSI of boost. “The NOVI-2000 has been a highly successful piece over the years and we knew that by using our current suite of tool and technology, we could improve on its performance, “ said Engineering Manager Mike Reagan. “The impeller wheel and shroud contour was created using CAD and specialized compressor design software. From there we tested and tweaked the NOVI-2500. The NOVI-2000 did not originally have access to these modern compressor design and testing tools.”

The supercharger feeds Paxton’s new PowerHat carburetor hat which has been engineered to distribute air evenly across the top of the carburetor…a common problem with other carburetor bonnets on the market. “We have seen that moving the position of the bonnet within five degrees on any given direction can vary 15-20 horsepower and half the motor running lean with half the motor running rich,” said Bob Endress of Vortech/Paxton. Exhausting the additional off-acceleration boost pressure from the system is Vortech’s Maxflow BV57 blow off valve.

Assembling the Engine

Brad Lagman and the QMP Racing team started on the machining, which took up most of the day Thursday.  The Dart Iron Eagle block was loaded up and CMM’d first to map out the block.  Once the CMM had finished getting the coordinates it needed, it began opening up the lifter bores to make way for the lifter bushings.  From there, the block was decked and line honed.  The final bore hone was done on another machine and washed afterwards.

First piece to be placed into the motor was Crower's hydraulic roller camshaft. Next up the Eagle crank was dropped in placed, torqued to spec and end play checked. Once the pistons and rods were hung with the file fitted rings, they were shoved down into the bores and secured to the crank.

In the mean time, the Eagle H-beam rods and Ross forged pistons were paired up.  Brad set the proper gap on the Total Seal AP steel rings, loose enough to support the 13-18 psi of boost we are going to need to hit our goal.  Also the Eagle 4340 forged crank was balance tested and came back perfect, not needing any mallory or further drilling.

Friday started with the crank in the block along with a test rod and piston to check for proper rod and crank clearance.  A light amount of grinding needed to be done on the bottom of the bores to ensure proper clearance before the block got its final bath before assembly.  The block with lifter bushings, oil feed restrictors, and pipe fittings installed was ready to be assembled. The ARP main studs were snug in place along with the coated main bearings.  Eagle’s crank fit right back into place and was secured with Dart’s 4-bolt, splayed, billet steel main caps.  The slugs were dropped into their corresponding holes and the short block was complete.

Netgasket.com-supplied gaskets help seal our motor up. The ARP head studs were hand threaded into place and the Dart 225 CNC heads were dropped on. Crower's valvetrain is a direct fit, including the shaft mount rockers that didn't need any machining to fit. We used large, one piece 3/8ths pushrods with 5/16ths ends.

The Melling oil pump with standard pressure and higher volume was put in place.  With the TCI Mustang custom IFS suspension installed, a rear sump Canton oil pan replaced the traditional front sump setup.  The Netgaskets.com Cometic head gaskets were put in place next as the Dart 225cc CNCed heads were slid down the ARP head studs. The Crower-supplied custom grind hydraulic roller camshaft made its way into the motor and the Crower shaft mount rocker stands were bolted in place, though the stainless shaft mount rockers have not been bolted down, since we needed to order push rods that were dialed into our application.

The last order of business was to mount up the Ford Performance Solution’s ported Edelbrock Super Victor intake manifold and AED blow-thru carburetor.  The Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger and Renegade bracket system was mounted up to the motor for pictures sake, though it still needs to be properly clocked, along with a fabricated intake pipe that will mount up to Paxton carburetor PowerHat.

Wrapping up our oiling system was a Melling standard pressure, high volume pump. A high pressure pump is not needed, thanks to Dart's priority main oiling system. We did go with the higher volume version to help feed the supercharger. The Canton rear sump pan with welded supercharger drain-back fitting was bolted to the engine. Getting the engine ready for the dyno, the AED blow through carburetor and massive Paxton NOVI-2500 was bolted in place. The NOVI-2500 uses a YSI race blower bracket, which comes with a new alternator bracket as well.

Engine Dyno Testing

Naturally Aspirated

The engine dyno session started by warming up the naturally aspirated engine with a few short pulls.  In the end, QMP made 535.3 hp and 446.2 lb/ft with a 11.6:1 air/fuel ratio and 35 degrees of timing on our low compression Ross pistons.  The pull was made with a naturally aspirated carburetor lying around and would have produced closer to 575 hp with optimized jetting…but naturally aspirated numbers wasn’t what we were aiming for. From there, we put the belt back on the Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger and the Paxton PowerHat on top of the AED blow thru carburetor.  We used 110 octane race gas on the boosted runs to simulate the octane levels we would see with our Snow Performance water/meth kit, once the engine was installed in the car.

In the end, QMP made 535.3 hp and 446.2 lb/ft with a 11.6:1 air/fuel ratio and 35 degrees of timing on our low compression Ross pistons.

Boosted Runs at 6 psi

Paxton supplied us with a host of pulley combinations and we started off with the smallest crank pulley and largest supercharger pulley we had.  This netted a first run pull that produced 730.4 hp and 639.1 lb/ft on a low 6 psi of boost – a remarkable increase of nearly 200 hp and 200 lb/ft over naturally aspirated.  This put the horsepower gains at 33 horsepower per pound of boost, which was surprisingly efficient for turning this big blower at such a low boost level.  Our air/fuel ratios were a little lean in terms of pump gas, but stable for race gas, averaging in the 12.4:1 range.

A first run pull that produced 730.4 hp and 639.1 lb/ft on a low 6 psi of boost – a remarkable increase of nearly 200 hp and 200 lb/ft over naturally aspirated.

Boosted Runs at 9 psi

Confident on what we produced at 6 psi, we swapped out the blower pulley for the small one we had.  Since we were going a little lean on the 6 psi pulley, we swapped out our 76/89 jets that came installed from AED for 78/94 jets.  Our first pull on 10 psi was abnormally lean and after a little bit of thinking, QMP realized that they still had their carbureted fuel pump installed on the dyno. With the Fuelab regulator commanding  17 psi of fuel pressure for the 9 psi of boost, the pump simply could not keep up.

The torque curve on this motor couldn't be more awesome. The Fuelab regulator was doing its job perfectly, adding 1 psi of fuel pressure per pound of boost. Additionally you can see from our jet change that our air/fuels were much more stable.

With the pump replaced, we were ready to go.  Mike loaded the motor against the dyno brake at 4700 rpm and let her go.  Starting at 6 psi of boost off the brake, the motor accelerated to 6200 rpm where it ended at 9 psi.  It actually created 9.6 psi at 6000 rpm, but we experience a little belt slip those last 200 rpm. The final numbers ended up at 852.1 hp and 734.2 lb/ft, though we would have been closer to the 875 hp range without the slip.  The air/fuel ratios were now spot on, producing an average ratio of 12:1.  This was a gain of 122 hp and 95 lb/ft – 41 hp per additional psi of boost; we are starting to get into a better efficiency range of this supercharger.

Boosted Runs at 16 psi

With the smallest pulley we had on the supercharger, we went to our big crank pulley.  This was going to be ‘make it or break it’ time as this was the most boost we were going to be able to produce with our pulley combinations. With the hammer down, my eyes were fixed on the dyno computer screen, looking for that four digit number.  Finally at the top of the run, I saw it…1030.3 hp.  Everyone shouted in excitement as the final dyno graph was displayed.  Unlike previous runs where the motor started to flat line for power at 6,000 rpm, the 427 wanted to make more power past our 6250 rpm shutoff point.  Job complete – we called it a day.

We were going for broke. With the carburetor jetted up slightly and the larger crank pulley attached to the balancer, it was on. At 6200, where the motor normally starts to flat line its power curve, it was still wanting to climb. Shutting it off at 6250 rpm we eclipsed our 1000 hp goal.

Recap of Power Numbers

From naturally aspirated to 16 psi of boost…from 535 hp to 1030 hp… every piece of our Dart 427ci engine combination worked flawlessly. Despite a few issues with belt slip (which making this much power was expected) we were excited that not a single part broke.  This was achieved with quality components and a shop that knew how to properly put them together.

This huge power was made by only spinning the motor up to 6200 rpm (and it was still making power).  We had nearly DOUBLED the horsepower of our small block on this moderate boost level, gaining 31 horsepower and 27 lb/ft per psi of boost. Now we really can’t wait to get this motor into our ’65 Mustang and tune it up for water/methanol injection with our Snow Performance dual nozzle kit.

The Specs

Short Block

• Dart Iron Eagle 9.500″ deck height, 4.125″ bore and 4.000″ stroke
• Eagle ESP 6.200″ long H-beam rods with ARP-2000 bolts
• Eagle ESP 4340 steel internally balanced 4.000″ stroke crankshaft
• Ross 4.125″ bore, horizontal gas ported, 9:1 compression billet pistons
• Total Seal AP steel rings, 1/16″ top 1/16″ second and 3/16″ oil rings
• Melling 10833 standard pressure, 25% additional volume oil pump
• Canton 7-quart capacity rear sump oil pump and pickup
• Innovators West Super Duty internally balanced balancer with double keys

Long Block

• Dart 225cc CNC Pro1 aluminum heads, fully assembled
• Crower 3/8ths 7.600 length pushrods
• Crower premium hydraulic tie bar roller lifters
• Crower hydraulic roller camshaft 260/266 at .050″, .619 lift, 114 degree lobe separation
• Crower 1.6 ratio steel shaft mount rockers
• Edelbrock Super Victor intake with Ford Performance Solutions hand porting
• AED 950 CFM blow-thru carburetor
• Paxton PowerHat carburetor bonnet
• Assorted brand gaskets from Netgaskets.com for entire engine build

Ignition and Supercharger

• MSD 7531 Digital 7 ignition box
• MSD HVC-II ignition coil
• MSD 3-bar MAP sensor
• MSD 8.5mm plug wires
• Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger with YSI Renegade bracket kit
• Vortech BV57 blow off valve

Our ’65 Mustang Project: “Biting the Bullitt” has been under the knife in the powerTV shop for the last few months getting a brand new suspension along with fitting the engine and transmission, as we get closer to firing it up for the first time.

In our previous installation articles we installed a TCI Custom IFS front suspension, along with a complete rear suspension from Strange and Calvert, plus capped off with a set of Wilwood brakes, Weld RT wheels, and Mickey Thompson tires.

We started with the TCI Custom IFS because we simply did not want to deal with working on a supercharged Windsor in a first gen Mustang’s overly tight engine bay.  Also, it updates the front suspension to a more conventional upper/lower control arm combination.

For the rear suspension, we knew the stock 7.5-inch rear end and according suspension pieces weren’t going to keep up with the 1000hp+ we were going to be throwing down.  A Strange 9-inch fit nicely in place, harnessing all the power we can throw at it.  Keeping the power transmitted properly to the pavement, we turned to Calvert Racing and their complete line of rear suspension pieces.  Lastly, wanting to fit a 15×9 and 275/60 drag radial comfortably in the wheel wells, we mini tubbed the Mustang with Autoworks’ Mustang-specific mini tub kit.

Overdrive and Durability In One with TCI’s 4L80E

With the suspension completed we moved to test fitting the engine and transmission.  For the transmission, we wanted something that would be easy to drive on the freeway and be able to handle the power.  Unfortunately, a C4 is hard to build properly and we needed more gears than a Poweglide can offer.  We decided to go with TCI’s Super Streetfighter 4L80E 4-speed transmission.  Yes we know, it’s a GM transmission in a Ford, but this transmission setup is really sweet.

TCI makes a modular 4L80E transmission that fits a wide range of applications, with the SFI approved bell housing on ours designed for a Ford engine. The EZ-TCU allows us to program shift points for full automatic shifting, or a manual mode can be triggered and the two buttons on the Outlaw shifter act as up and downshifts.

It all starts with TCI’s modular case that allows a Ford SFI approved bell housing to be adapted straight to it.  That means no screwing around with spacer plates, everything bolts on and goes.

It is backed by a EZ-TCU and Outlaw shifter, which makes shifting a breeze because we simply don’t have to do anything! The EZ-TCU gives the Outlaw shifter the ability to be used in manual or automatic mode via the ratcheting shifter or the two push buttons on the shifter for up or down shifting.  While in drive mode, the EZ-TCU can be programmed to shift at any RPM you want, increasing consistency and keeping us in the power band between shifts.  There is even a switch that can be installed to regulate between soft (street) and firm (race) line pressures.

The 4L80E does depend on throttle position to work properly, so we opted for a TCI TPS sensor that drives straight from the carburetor’s throttle linkage and plugs directly into the EZ-TCU’s harness.

We knew it wasn’t going to be a direct fit for this much larger transmission, and rather then screw around with patch panels, we scalped the Mustang’s tunnel and installed a fresh sheet metal version that we formed in house that allows for complete functionality of the transmission linkage and cooler lines.

Since the TCI cross member already comes with engine mounts, there was no guesswork involved to get the small block in the car.  For the transmission mount, we turned to Chris Alston Chassisworks’ universal transmission mount kit. While they do offer the kit in different radiused bends, we opted for the straight tube and bent our own.  The kit also includes two clevis ends with tabs and a transmission mount bracket. It was really easy to install, especially since we had our Chris Alston subframe brace in place to mount the tabs to.

The 4L80E is a big boy. We didn't mess around with hammering the tunnel to try to make it work, rather we scalped the tunnel and installed a fresh sheet metal piece that even offers a little wiggle room. Chris Alston's universal transmission mount worked perfectly and we secured it to their subframe brace. With the tunnel finished, we cleaned the entire bottom of the Mustang and undercoated it with canned 3M undercoating spray. This really helps the appearance and also reduces further rusting.

Cooling and Fueling with Snow Performance, Aeroquip, Fuelab, Derale and AFCO

With the motor in place we moved to plumbing the fuel system with help from our friends from Fuelab and Aeroquip.  Instead of going with a fuel cell, we were lucky enough to buy Tim Grillot’s sumped stock tank he had built for his fastback.  Fuelab then supplied us with their 1800 hp capable variable speed EFI fuel pump, 1:1 regulator, pre and post filters.

It is important to run a EFI fuel pump on blow-through carbureted applications, since we will see nearly 25 PSI of fuel pressure under full boost. The other great benefit of Fuelab’s fuel pump technology is that it can be run in low speed for street duty and switch to high speed when you need it.  The pump can be wired for either a trigger or ground switch to activate. We will wire the pump to activate on the pump switch from the Snow Performance water/meth kit mounted in the trunk, so when the Snow pump activates around 4 psi of boost, the Fuelab pump will run in high speed instantly.

We needed to fit the largest possible radiator we could in our '65, so we turned to AFCO to build us a custom piece. The radiator secures into the frame rails at the bottom with dowels and threaded bungs on the front side that attach to the core support. The factory core support recess was cut out to gain much-needed clearance.

To feed the pump and motor we went with Aeroquip’s Starlite hoses and fittings. The Starlite racing hose is Aeroquip’s light weight racing hose, up to 45% lighter than steel braided.  But don’t think this hose isn’t strong; it is covered with flame resistant Nomex and ultra durable Kevlar. For line sizes, we went with -12 AN from the pump to the pre-filter with a -10 AN outlet and return line. We also used the Starlite hoses and fittings to connect our custom Canton oil separator to the valve cover’s welded bungs.

Since we knew we wanted to drive the Mustang around town without running into overheating issues, we turned to AFCO to build us a custom radiator to fill every bit of available space we had in the front of the Mustang. Fitting from frame rail to frame rail, this all-aluminum cross flow radiator locates into the frame rail with dowels and features threaded bungs on the front of the radiator so we can attach it directly to the core support. Before we could do that, we had to cut out the factory radiator’s mounting point and recess, gaining much-needed clearance to the motor.

A sumped stock tank was a simple solution for our fuel system. Since the fuel pump is mounted above the sump, Fuelab recommends adding a check valve right after the pump's outlet. The post fuel filter is mounted about two feet forward of the outlet onto the Chassisworks' subframe connectors. The rest of our fuel system consists of a Snow Performance Stage 3 water/meth injection kit, which we mounted the 2.5 gallon tank and pump opposite of our battery box.

With the supercharger and radiator in place, it is a tight fit, with as little as 2-1/4 inches of clearance in some spots.  We turned to Derale to build us a custom shroud that would place dual fans offset from each other in spots that would clear the supercharger drive system.  To aid with the building, we made a template of our front drive, complete with spacing to all the bolts and belts.

The Odds and Ends

With the fueling wrapped up and the cooling system nearly complete, we moved onto buttoning up other projects and prepping for wiring.

We made an electronics panel that mounts in place of the factory heater blower, allowing us to easily service any of the engine’s electronics.  Everything will be controlled by Racepak’s new SmartWire that is a fully programmable, automated relay board that contains no fuses.

The Racepak UDX display fit perfectly into the blank Mustang dash insert we purchased. The UDX will display all our critical sensor inputs as well as displaying our basic car functions like turn signals and lights.

Speaking of Racepak, we also went with their UDX series gauge cluster.  Outside of displaying all of our critical sensor outputs, it also serves duty like a traditional cluster with turn signal, fuel level, and high beam switch notification. We mounted the UDX into an ABS plastic panel that fits directly into our factory gauge cluster location.

Canton supplied us with this trick baffled oil catch can that vents to both valve covers.  Canton has the ability to build custom catch tanks with any options you desire.

The trunk was a suitable place to mount our Snow Performance 2.5 gallon reservoir, along with a simple bracket to hold the pump in place.  Opposite the tank is a Taylor battery box with an Optima Red Top Battery and emergency shut off switch mounted to the box.

We really didn’t want to install a cowl hood on the Mustang and opted for a classic teardrop hood from Maier Racing.  We did run into an issue with clearance to the intake pipe and opted to leave the pipe exposed from the outside…after a weekend polishing project, that is.

Biting the Bullitt is getting really close to running with a week’s worth of random tasks and a few days of wiring left before it is ready to run.  With a mere 300 hours into the project we are getting excited about making that first trip to the track for some solid nine-second passes.  Stay tuned to future updates and tech articles on our ’65 ‘Stang!

When making a lot of power, the rear suspension of a vehicle shouldn’t be a place to cheap out.  Not only do you need a suspension that is designed to plant (and not blow up) the engine’s power to the tires, you also need a tire with a wide enough foot print to transmit that power to the pavement.

Our 1965 Mustang project “Biting the Bullitt” recently had a complete TCI Engineering Custom IFS front suspension installed to make way for our Dart 427ci behemoth that pumps out over 1000 hp and 875 lb/ft of neck-snapping torque.  But not to worry, we have no intention on trying to put that much power through the stock 7.5-inch rear end!

It's rather simple when you look at it - our complete rear end setup for our '65 Mustang.

Much like the front suspension, the rear was going to need a complete overhaul if we wanted to make the Mustang hook.  Enlisting the help from Strange, Calvert, Wilwood, Autoworks, Mickey Thompson and Weld, we built a simple yet effective rear suspension that will handle all the power we can throw at it.

As any first generation Mustang owner knows, it’s damn near impossible to put a large enough tire in the stock wheel houses without diverting away from the stock leaf spring geometry, or doing some outter fender work.  Trying to keep this project as simple as possible, going to a link-type rear suspension was going to be out of the question.

But the suspension was only going to be half the battle in this war for traction.  The stock wheel houses in the Mustang are not very wide and have a very sharp bend, inhibiting a tall tire from fitting without the stance of a 1960s Gasser. We wanted to fit up to a 28×10.5-inch tire on the Mustang so mini tubs were a requirement for this project.

Autoworks Mini Tubs

The stock tubs have a very sharp taper and additional metal must be added to their width to do a 'poor man's' mini tub kit. The Autoworks tubs allow for better tire clearance and are built at the proper width.

Just getting the stock suspension out was a chore. The bolt and sleeve on the front mounts were ceased up so bad that we actually had to cut the old leaf springs, and then dissect the mount like a science project to get everything free. After we drilled out the spot welds that hold the trunk hinges onto the stock inner wheel houses, we busted out our Cornwell plasma cutter and sliced through the sheet metal like butter...and with minimal fires.

After a few trial fitments and some clean up, the Autoworks tubs fit snug as a bug. The inner sheet metal lines up with the factory stop, though we cut it out for more clearance. Having this flat sheet of metal on the frame rail really allows us to properly weld the tubs to the old outer houses. Installation isn't overly complex, it's really about slowly cutting back the inner houses to get to a point in which everything lines up perfectly. The trunk hinges will need to be cut down slightly due to the taller wheel houses and some sealer is a good idea to keep the trunk area dry.

Next, were the inherent limitations of the stock leaf spring placement.  We could do full tubs in the Mustang but without relocating the leaf springs, it was going to be a waste.  We initially started with a Money Maker Racing relocation kit that is pieced together from early Mopar parts, though after test fitting the kit on the car, we decided to only use half of the kit.

It comes with one inch offset shackles that are paired up to forward mounts with four through-floor studs. While the offset shackles worked perfectly, the forward spring mounts are recommended to be installed just inside the frame rail.  This would put the forward mount at a three inch offset in relation to the rear shackle.

Wanting to have a completely straight leaf spring, we opted for a new pair of forward weldable mounts that were moved in one inch from stock. They are much more durable than the stock two piece formed mounts.

Wanting to have a completely straight leaf spring, we opted for a new pair of forward weldable mounts that were moved in one inch from stock. This movement not only allowed us to safely clear a 275/60/15 or 28×10.5 tire, it also eliminated the two piece spot welded mount and replaced it with a thicker, single piece formed mount from AFCO.

Strange Custom 9-inch Rear End

With our rear spring debacle squared away, we moved onto building our Strange Engineering 9-inch rear end.  We opted to shorten the rear end with by one inch, which is the most we could remove to properly fit our Wilwood rear brake kit.

The rear end starts as their H1115 9-inch housing that is slotted for full tube engagement and has reinforced face plate for superb housing rigidity. The nodular iron case boasts chromemoly bearing caps retain by socket head cap screws that exceed aircraft grade 8 specifications as well as steel adjuster nuts. “The aluminum case is 20 pounds lighter, though we typically don’t recommend them on cars over 2600 pounds,” said J.C. Cascio of Strange.  “The reason is that with a heavier car, the case is more prone to deflect, and with that deflection the gear pattern shifts; that can lead to premature gear wear and failure.”  In case you didn’t know, Strange machined all of the SVO 9-inch cases for Ford during their production run.

The Strange rear end is all about strength and it will be the least of our worries when it comes to parts breakage on a high horsepower application like ours.

Filling the case is none other than a 35 spline Detroit Locker differential.  While most people would go with a spool when making this much horsepower, we stuck with the “Bitting the Bullitt” mantra and went with a differential for better street driveability.  The Eaton Detroit Locker is designed to deliver 100% of the torque to both drive wheels while still allowing wheel speed differentiation to maximize traction between the wheels and around the corners.

Mated to the Detroit Locker is a Motive Gear 3.70:1 ring and pinion set.  The front of the case is sealed off with a Daytona style taper bearing support that features a larger than stock rear pinion bearing. Due to the oil porting this support provides the best solution for street/strip users who are seeking an increase in strength over stock pinion supports. “It has the same oiling capacity as the cast iron pieces we sell, but the forged aluminum body is more rigid, and will give you less deflection at the pinion bearing,” said Cascio.

Strange's S Series axles are designed for a street car because they have the ability to flex, unlike their Pro Series axles that are completely hardened.

A pair of Strange S Series CNC machined 35 spline axles make the connection from the differential to the wheels. With years of testing experience behind them, Strange has engineered a modified version of 1550 steel that is then induction hardened.  The process of induction hardening is where the axle is pulled through an electrical coil where it is heated and quenched.  This type of heat treatment is ideal for hardening the case of the shaft while the the core remains soft to allow for a bit of bending during street use without snapping, and since we are going to be driving this car on the street a lot, the S Series axles were the perfect choice. “On the 35 spline S Series axle we recommend up to about 1000 HP before one might want to consider going to a race series axle,” recommends Cascio.

Strange Engineering Custom 9-inch Street/Strip Rear End

• H1115 9-inch housing with tubes and big Ford housing ends
• 35 Spline Detroit Locker differential
• 3.70:1 gear ratio
• S Series 35 spline axles
• Nodular iron case
• Upgraded Daytona style billet pinion support

Calvert Suspension Components

If you are a leaf spring drag racer and you have never heard of Calvert Racing, then you have been living a sheltered life.  They are renowned for building everything from traction bars to leaf springs and we had to get, well…all of it.  Virtually everything Calvert makes, we have equipped on the rear end of our ’65 Mustang project.

It starts with Calvert’s HD spring perches that we purposely left off during the rear end manufacturing process so we could properly locate them on our adjusted spring location. While a spring perch doesn’t seem to be a complex piece, it does come tabbed for optimal welding penetration, gusseted for added strength, and extends to the center of the axle tube for added contact surface.

The spring perches were purposely left off during the rear end manufacturing process so we could properly locate them to our adjusted spring location. The Calvert HD mounts cover 50% of the axle tubes for the highest strength possible.

Multi-leafs are designed to give progressive dampening when driving and while this is fine and dandy for a daily driver or road course racer, going to a single rate split mono leaf was going to be much more desirable from a weight savings perspective.  Also with a split mono leaf one can expect more repeatable launches pass after pass. Calvert offers these springs in 220-225 pounds and a variety of heights.

Calvert’s most well-known product by far are their CalTracs traction bars. Think about the dynamics of a leaf spring; as the tires try to grab for traction, the leaf springs begin to curl upwards in an S-shape, lifting the axle off the ground and instantly causing traction problems. The tire turns into a basketball and that dreaded feel of wheel hop leaves the rear suspension and driveshaft begging for mercy.

Calvert's CalTrac bars keep the leaf springs from coiling during launch, which can lead to a dramatic traction loss. The split mono leaf shocks weigh nearly half that of a traditional multi-leaf.

Tech Tip:On foot-brake cars you will want to start with a stiffer rear shock setting, while trans-brake cars prefer softer settings.

The CalTracs are simple in design but work to keep the spring from wrapping under hard acceleration.  It replaces the lower shock mount, connecting with a threaded piece of tubing that finally mounts to the lower leaf spring mounts.  Not only does this triangulate the leaf spring to reduce wrap, but as the leaf spring begins to move upward, the forward mounting brackets also limit the leaf spring upward movement.  Adjusting the threaded pipe effects the pre-load of the spring.  John Calvert of Calvert Racing recommends, “What we first recommend is putting the forward heim joint in the hole that puts the bar most level at ride height. Next, put a quarter turn of pre-load (extending the bar length) on both sides.  You should run it that way for the first couple track sessions. After the first session though, we would verify that pre-load was still set properly after initial break in.”

Calvert continued, “The real goal is develop a baseline for tire pressure, starting line RPM, and shock settings that the car is most comfortable with before adjusting the CalTracs any further. For radial cars, even an eighth to quarter inch of air gap can be ideal because it allows the rear end to rotate slightly before engaging the CalTracs.  We like to recommend even a few back-to-back passes experimenting with air gap versus pre-load to see what the car likes the best.  What you want to do is hit the tires as hard as you can without spinning and sometimes adjusting from pre-load to an air gap setup will help slow that cycle on bad tracks.”

Calvert's adjustable shocks are offered in a wide range of bolt on applications and feature an eight way adjustment dial that effects the shock's rebound.

Rounding out the suspension is Calvert’s CR Series nine-way adjustable shocks. The adjustment for these shocks are primarily designed to control rebound after launch to control rear body separation.  Calvert continued his setup techniques by explaining, “Shock adjustment mainly depends on if it’s a foot-brake car or a trans-brake car.  On a trans-brake car we recommend to run the shocks very loose while a foot-brake car should be ran tight. If separation between the tire and the fender happen at a really fast rate, there can be instances where all four tires will come off the ground; this is an instance where you want to slow the separation by tightening up the shocks.”

Calvert CalTracs PN# 6400

• Complete bolt-on – no cutting, welding needed
• Keeps axle from rotating, helping maintain pinion angle
• Eliminates spring wrap-up
• Full pre-load adjustability

Calvert CR Series 9 Way Adjustable Rear Shocks PN# CR44116

• 9 way externally adjustable knob
• Dial primarily adjusts rebound, enabling driver to control excessive body separation
• Heavy duty industrial steel bodied design

Calvert Split Mono Leaf PN# 2000

• Complete with aluminum bushings in front eyes and urethane bushings in rear eyes
• Split mono leafs made to work in conjunction with CalTracs
• 200 – 225 pound spring rates available
• Substantially lighter than multi leaf springs for unsprung weight savings

Wilwood’s Four Piston 12-Inch Rear Brake Kit

When going 140+ mph down the quarter mile, you really need a set of brakes that will stop you before the run off ends. Nothing gets the pucker factor fired up faster than running out of brakes before a safe turn off.  While many hardcore race cars go with a lightweight plate-style rotor to reduce rotating weight, we went with a traditional Wilwood vented rotor that has been cross drilled and slotted.

In addition to the aesthetic appeal, the venting and cleaning action of the hole and slot pattern helps to reduce pad glaze and minimize irregular pad build-up on the rotor faces. The results are a smoother engagement feel at the pedal and consistent response from the pads.Again, we want to enjoy driving the Mustang around the street and we are willing to Bite the Bullitt by carrying the additional weight.

Bolting to the 12 inch rotors (the biggest Wilwood rotor we can fit behind our Weld wheels) is a Dynalite four piston caliper. These calipers are super light; only weighing 2.8 pounds each and are stress-flow forged. The process of stress-flow forging re-aligns the metal’s grain structure within the contour of the caliper body. This process eliminates the breaks and interruptions to the internal grain structure that occur when machining a straight block billet.

This rear kit actually carries the exact same specifications as our front brake kit.  When it comes to proportioning the kit, Wilwood’s Michael Hamrick suggests, “You want to put the proportioning valve on the set of wheels that are going to lock up under hard braking. In a drag racing application, you have plenty of tire out back and not enough on the front, which will lead you to wanting more rear brake bias.”

Included in the kit is Wilwood’s parking brake assembly with integrated billet caliper mounts.

Wilwood Dynalite Rear Parking Brake Kit PN# 140-7140-D

• Black Electro Coat drilled, slotted, and vented 12.19-inch Rotors
• Forged billet 4-piston calipers
• High performance Wilwood brake pads
• Parking brake assembly with integrated billet caliper brakes

The axle must be removed so that the parking brake assembly can be installed. After that, the axle is slid in place, the bearing retaining plate then slides in place and is secured with the included bolts through the axle's access hole.

The calipers slide in place and are retained by two bolts. The pads slide in place and are secured by an easy to remove cotter pin.

Capped off with Weld Wheels and Mickey Thompson Tires

Capping everything off is a set of Weld Classic RT wheels wrapped in Mickey Thompson rubber. Weld’s RT wheels are a multi-piece design for the maximum strength with the lightest weight possible. Also the wheels easily clear our 12-inch Wilwood rotors, though Weld also touts these wheels for F-Body, S197 Mustang GT, & other late model performance applications for their brake clearance capabilities.  Weld’s RT wheels surpass all applicable race wheel & SAE street wheel standards and carry a maximum load rating for street applications is 1200 pounds per wheel with a 28-inch tire.

While the $199 paint job is toast on our Mustang now, she will be getting a full make over after we get a few passes on it so she can look as good as the wheels.

The wheels are available with a black anodized or polished center and are designed for use with a 5/8-inch drive stud or short shank mag style lug. In the rear we went with a 15×9 width and a 5.5 backspace that is accompanied by a half inch spacer to give proper clearance to the leaf spring. Mickey Thompson supplied a set of their proven 275/60/15 street radials plus a pair of 26×4.5×15 front runners. Both tires are radials and do not require tubes.

Our Project “Biting the Bullitt” ’65 Mustang has come a long way in recent months with the completion of the TCI front suspension and most recently the rear.  Combining the simple yet sturdy design of the Mustang’s leaf spring rear suspension with modern technology will help us be as consistent as possible off the line.  For Strange’s 9-inch and Wilwood’s brakes, having a bullet proof means to transmit and also slow down all the power we will be making is insurance we can look forward to on and off the strip!

Photo Gallery

Anyone that has ever tried to stuff a tall deck engine into a first generation Mustang knows it can be painful. Even trying to fit a nice set of long tube headers on a 289 or 302 can make accessing spark plugs a pain, thanks to those pesky shock towers. While a 351 Windsor motor will fit with a little massaging, changing spark plugs can turn into an all-day process. Want a Cleveland? Have fun with that.

On top of the pains of fitting anything taller than a 8.200 deck height block in a first generation Mustang, the suspension design is less than desirable. Don’t get us wrong: the Mustang has proven itself in both drag racing and road racing with the conventional suspension design, though technology advancements over the 45+ years has made that design all but obsolete. Thanks to help from Total Cost Involved, Wilwood, ididit, and Grant – we are going to add some 21st century spark to our freshman-class Mustang.

The stock Mustang suspension system starts with the classic steering box and idler arm design. The stock steering arms are far from durable and steering box suspensions typically come with a lot of steering wheel play, which can be dangerous when driving the car over bumps. Connected to the wheels is a pair of drum brakes, though a V8 version came with front disc brakes. The shock and spring are mounted above the upper control arm and the lower control arm is stabilized by a tension rod.

Our project “Biting the Bullitt” 1965 Mustang will be receiving a 1030 HP 427 CI Windsor-based small block Ford. We wanted to switch to a modern suspension design for a safety and handling perspective while freeing up the engine bay so it would be much easier to service the tall deck, small block Ford. “One nice feature about our kit is that the engine mounts are already placed, which allows the engine to bolt directly in place with the included engine mounts,” said TCI’s sales Manager Evan Dalley.

Freeing up engine bay space and converting to a conventional suspension design with Total Cost Involved

Total Cost Involved Mustang Custom IFS Front Suspension Conversion PN 230-2200-00

• Urethane bushed tubular A-arms
• Manual or power rack and pinion
• Custom 2-inch drop spindles
• 1-inch performance anti-roll bar
• Inner fender panels
• Single adjustable coil-over shocks (double adjustable by option)
• 11-inch drilled and slotted rotors with big bore GM calipers standard – other options available
• 1-1/8-inch lower and 1-inch upper control arms
• Comes standard with small block mounts with big block and Modular available
• Chrome/polished show option available

Wilwood Dynalite Brake Kit PN 140-10502

• Black Electro Coat drilled, slotted, and vented 12.19-inch Rotors
• Forged billet 4-piston calipers
• High performance Wilwood brake pads
• Lug studs, hub assembly, and rotor adapter
• New bearings, seals, bolts, and bearing lube included

On top of our Wilwood brake kit, we will be installing a 7/8ths Wilwood master cylinder and combination proportioning valve, but we will get into that later in the installation

Our Wilwood front brake kit comes with four piston calipers and 12-inch vented rotors. All hardware for installation is included with the kit, though TCI will assemble the brakes onto the spindles prior to shipping a customer's kit. This is a big help from an installation perspective.

One of the extra steps that TCI Engineering takes to make their customer’s lives easier is by installing the brake kit onto the spindles before they ship. TCI offers a basic GM-based brake kit and they stock many popular Wilwood brake sizes. For us, we went with Wilwood’s black Electro Coat 12-inch cross drilled/slotted rotors.  The Electro Coat helps the rotors fight corrosion while staying cleaner longer. The calipers are Wilwood’s Dynalite four piston stoppers that are designed to clear our 15-inch skinnies and provide a stealthy look. The Dynalite calipers are made from forged billet aluminum and support a 3.96-inch width pad. Additionally, the kit comes complete with the mounting hub, lug studs, brake pads and assembly bolts. When you order a set of Wilwood’s with TCI Engineering ‘s kit, they also include a super thick polished backing plate that adds yet another nice touch.

New bearings, seals, bolts, and bearing lube included They even build their own coilovers that come available in single or double adjustable configuration. Additionally, TCI offers spring rates from 160 to 500 pounds, depending on your application. We selected 375 pounds for our application.

There are a few major manufacturers that produce a Mustang II front suspension conversion for the first generation Mustang and one of those highly regarded companies is Total Cost Involved. Based in Ontario, California, TCI Engineering manufactures a wide range of suspension components for classic muscle cars. All their parts, even the metal they use, are built in their southern California facility.

We took a trip up to TCI Engineering to watch our Mustang Custom IFS suspension kit get built.  All of TCI Engineering’s parts are built a large quantities at one time. They have jigs built for all their suspension parts and a team of TIG welders spend their day assembling everything from control arms, shocks, subframes, to hot rod car frames. “We build a tubular 1 -1/8th diameter DOM seamless tubing lower control arm that eliminates the stock strut rod,” said Dalley.  “The kit is specifically designed for a coilover and not a separate spring and shock combination like a conventional Mustang II suspension has.  This keeps you from having to cut a section out of the rail to clear the coil spring.”

Installation First Starts at Removal

With our kit done and back in our shop, it was now my turn to get the Mustang from the storage yard a few blocks over. This poor inline six knew it was going to get killed and struggled with me the whole way over to the shop. It had developed a massive water leak around two of the freeze plugs under the exhaust manifold, and the engine had virtually no water in it, but then the Mustang also wouldn’t want to run unless it was up to operating temperature. By the time I had made the two block trek over to the shop, the engine temperature gauge was nearly pegged at 240 degrees – thank god it made it.

There isn’t a whole lot going on in the engine bay of a 1965 Mustang and Sean made quick work of getting the engine out in a hurry... that is after it cooled off over night.

The next task was to get the stock suspension out of the car. TCI Engineering recommends cutting the springs (that is if you don’t plan to sell them) to quicken up the disassembly process. Steering and all, the whole suspension plopped out the bottom of the car and the steering box/shaft was removed.

It was time to cut out the problem child of the engine bay - the shock towers. It was like a hot knife through butter, thanks to our Cornwell plasma cutter.

The most time consuming part of the install is all the cutting and grinding. The tension rod brackets must be hacked off along with the engine mount brackets, then those spot welds need to be drilled out to get the excess metal off the frame, as the frame rails need be be completely clean of brackets.

Additionally there is a stepped ledge from the frame rail to where the shock tower was located that must be smoothed out for the reinforcement plates. It took us the better part of the day to get to this point. And yes we had to throw some weight in the front of the car and strap it to the lift to keep it from falling off the back of it

Installing the TCI Engineering Mustang Custom IFS Front Suspension Kit

The reinforcement plates come in three pieces per side to strengthen the new subframe that will be supporting the suspension as well as the engine. The L-shaped plate fits from the inner frame rail to the top side, the other flat plate on the outside of the frame rail and the curved piece fits on the bottom.

To make installation easier, TCI Engineering uses a one of the old idler bolt holes to locate the L-bracket to the outside bracket. The bottom plate uses a threaded bolt hole to locate itself. The brackets are lined up, clamped in place and spot welded. We double checked the brackets once more and then finish-welded them.

With both sides of the frame rail reinforced, it was time to get the subframe in place. TCI Engineering does note that the subrame should fit snug in place, though if you need to trim it to fit your frame rails, to make sure you remove material from both sides of the subframe evenly so it mounts in the center. "The cross member is tucked up higher than a conventional Mustang II front cross member, which gives better ground clearance over a junkyard piece," explained Dalley.

Included locator tabs bolt to the frame rail on the front side, though you still need to check to make sure that the subframe is mounted at a 90 degree angle to the frame rails. From there, Sean tack welded the subframe in place. This is where we called it a night.

Day two started with a little welding clean up and straight into the upper control arm mounting plates. Again, TCI Engineering utilizes a temporary locating bolt to place the control arm in the correct location and a backing plate that sits flat to the frame, which we checked with a level before finishing up the welding.

With the spot welding done, the locating bolt can be cut off and the inner mounting point completely welded. We are getting close to being done with the welding portion of the install.

The last bit of welding was the sway bar mounting brackets. Locate the center between the two lower mounting holes and then measure 12-inches from the front of the subframe for its final resting spot.

A few quick coats of semi gloss black paint on the control arms (TCI Engineering offers a black powder coat or show polish finish) and freshly welded pieces and we started assembling the suspension. First was the lower control arms and then we moved to the double adjustable coilovers. The double adjustable shock is an option from TCI Engineering (and the only option we took) as this will help us dial the suspension in between street and track driving. "The upper control arm are 1-inch in diameter and both arms use a massive Chrysler screw-in ball joint that is very heavy duty and are easy to replace," said Dalley.

With the lower shock mount placed into the lower control arm and the upper shock mount installed into the fixed mount, it was time to install our Wilwood brake and spindle assembly. From this picture you can see exactly how thick that backing plate really is.

The manual rack bolted right into place with two bolts and secured to the spindle with castle nuts. The sway bar is mounted with the included bushings and brackets and secured on the end with adjustable endlinks.

The completed Wilwood brakes look great on the TCI Custom IFS suspension. At this point we are done with the TCI portion and now we will move to the column and final braking components.

Final Braking and Components

Our Mustang came from the factory with four wheel drum brakes.  With our Wilwood front kit, and a nearly identical kit for the rear to be installed on our Strange Engineering 9-inch later, we knew the stock master cylinder wasn’t going to be able to supply the additional fluid we would need.  For our application we went with Wilwood’s black E-Coat 7/8-inch tandem master cylinder. “There is actual math to figuring out the sizing of a brake master cylinder, though a lot of the choice comes from R&D and testing,” said Wilwood’s Michael Hamrick. “This comes down to pedal feel, volume, and pressure needed for that application.”

Hamrick continued, “Even if you are a stronger guy, we will go a little larger. For smaller people that want a little easier pedal, we will go a little smaller. Still it’s the tires that stop the car, not the brakes – an all season tire isn’t going to stop the same as a hardcore racing tire with the same Wilwood brake package.”

Wilwood’s tandem chamber master cylinders are fully machined from a high-pressure die casting of a premium alloy. The master cylinder has full separation between the front and rear chambers.

Bench bleeding your master cylinder before hand will drastically reduce brake problems. "When you mount a pedal to a vehicle, you start creating limiting factors, like how far a pedal will stroke the master cylinder before it bottoms out on the floor board," explained Hamrick. "It is important to bench bleed the FULL stroke of the master cylinder to alleviate all the air inside it."

The Wilwood brake master will bolt directly up to the Mustang's firewall and we used the stock push rod and fabricated an adjustable sleeve.

But we didn’t want to use a pile of rusted, old brake lines and decided to run all fresh lines on the front of the car.  To aid with the proper distribution, we opted for Wilwood’s combination proportioning valve. The valve substantially simplifies mounting, plumbing, wiring and brake proportioning adjustments.  “You want to put the proportioning valve on the set of wheels that are going to lock up under hard braking,” explained Hamrick. “In a drag racing application, you have plenty of tire out back and not enough on the front, which will lead you to wanting more rear brake bias.”

The combination block maintains full isolation between front and rear fluid circuits and can be used in conjunction with any tandem outlet or dual mount master cylinder assemblies. The rear circuit has a single inlet and single outlet with the adjustable proportioning valve. The front circuit has a single inlet with two outlets. It can be run as a single outlet with one outlet plugged, or used to split the plumbing on its way to the front calipers.

ididit Column and Grant Steering Wheel

Part of the rack and pinion is that you are eliminating the factory steering linkage system.  The steering linkage adapts onto the steering column differently.  Companies do make adapters to convert to the rack and pinion steering, but we wanted a fresh column to go with our newly-installed front suspension.  We turned to ididit and their black powder coated tilt column that is made specifically for first generation floor shift Mustangs. The column is a direct fit unit that utilizes a new lower collar that mounts through the factory firewall and accepts a conventional U-joint.  The center mount is retained from the factory C-clip and secures under the dash with the pre-existing bolts.  The steering wheel hub fits the stock Ford pattern and you can reuse the stock Mustang wheel on it.

Also for a fresh look steering wheel, we went with Grant’s stainless steel three spoke Classic Nostalgia Wheel.  This 15-inch diameter wheel features a black foam cushion grip and a Ford-licensed Mustang horn cap.  Grant includes a wide variety of adapters that will makes bolting on this wheel a breeze.  They also include column caps for a seamless install and no wheel-to-column gap.

ididit 65-66 Column PN# 1120642051

• Tilt column that is a direct bolt in
• Pre-wired with factory colors
• Four-way flashers
• Factory Ford top spline bolt pattern
• Offered in paintable steel, chrome plated steel, and black powder coat

Grant Classic Nostalgia Wheel PN #968

• 15-inch Diameter, three spoke design
• Black foam cushion grip, brushed stainless steel spokes
• Ford Mustang horn cap

The wiring on the ididit column is identical to the stock wiring. We even swapped over our stock wiring plug for a true OEM fitment.

The column includes a new mount for the firewall but retains the stock C-clip for under the dash. Everything bolts up into the stock location, including the harness.

The Grant steering wheel was a super easy install that includes all the hardware needed to get this wheel to fit properly. Plus it looks great in our '65 Mustang's interior!

Better Handling and Braking with More Engine Bay Space on our Not-so-Modern Mustang

While the Mustang’s stock suspension has proven itself in competition, it is still an obsolete design.  Utilizing a conventional upper and lower control arm combination, stability and expandability can be optimized, plus eliminating the stock-style steering box reduces slop and increases responsiveness through the steering wheel.  Outside of the suspension enhancements, removing the stock shock towers from the Mustang allows you to install virtually any engine your heart desires, with the ability to easily work on it as well.  But you cannot forget the safety of a quality braking system that’s supplied by Wilwood.  TCI noted a 50+ foot stopping decrease from 60 MPH when compared to the stock drums.  When trapping over 140 MPH in quarter mile, being able to stop before the end of the track is a necessity!

The highpoint in pretty much any vehicle build is the engine.  In a lot of circumstances, the rest of the car is designed around how much power the engine is going to produce.  Needless to say, we were amped when we rolled into QMP Racing for the dyno session on our carbureted blow-thru 427ci small block Ford.  QMP had done a great job building our Windsor and even added a few of their own touches, like a slightly reconfigured oiling system and lifter bushings.  To get an overview of the engine, check out our sneak preview update and also the upcoming full tech article on this build.

The engine dyno session started by warming up the naturally aspirated engine with a few short pulls.  In the end, QMP made 535HP and 446 lb/ft with a conservative air/fuel ratio on our low compression Ross pistons.  From there, we put the belt back on the Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger and the Paxton PowerHat on top of the AED blow thru carburetor.  We used 110 octane race gas on the boosted runs to simulate the octane levels we would see with our Snow Performance water/meth kit, once the engine was installed in the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2We0H39qYc

Paxton supplied us with a host of pulley combinations and we started off with the smallest crank pulley and largest supercharger pulley we had.  This netted a first run pull that produced  730hp and 639 lb/ft on a low 6 psi of boost – a remarkable increase of nearly 200HP and 200 lb/ft over naturally aspirated.  This put the horsepower gains at 33 horsepower per pound of boost, which was surprisingly efficient for turning this big blower at such a low boost level.

We don’t want to give all the details away that are going into our feature article, but we did try out three other pulley combinations that finally ended at 16psi of boost.  This is where the 427 rocketed to 1030HP and 873 lb/ft.  This huge power was made by only spinning the motor up to 6200 RPM (and it was still making power) through the Crower hydraulic roller setup.  We had nearly DOUBLED the horsepower of our small block on this moderate boost level, gaining 31 horsepower and 27 lb/ft per psi of boost. We were still surprised how efficient Paxton’s new NOVI-2500 is on both low and high boost applications.

TCI Engineering Mustang Custom IFS Front Suspension Conversion

Anyone that has ever tried to stuff a tall deck engine into a first generation Mustang knows it can be painful. Even trying to fit a nice set of long tube headers on a 289 or 302 can make accessing spark plugs a pain, thanks to those pesky shock towers. While a 351 Windsor motor will fit with a little massaging, changing spark plugs can turn into an all-day process. Want a Cleveland? Have fun with that.

Despite the pains of fitting anything taller than a 8.200 deck height block in a first generation Mustang, the suspension design is less than desirable. Don’t get us wrong, the Mustang has proven itself in both drag racing and road racing with the conventional suspension design, though technology advancements over the 45+ years has made that design all but obsolete. Thanks to help from Total Cost Involved Engineering, Wilwood, IDIDIT, and Grant – we are going to add some 21st century spark to our freshman class Mustang.

The TCI Engineering Mustang Custom IFS suspension system took us about two days to install and comes with all the hardware you need to install the kit.  This includes reinforcement plates that box the front frame rails to make way for the new cross member.  The kit also converts the Mustang into a rack and pinion setup, in which we went with the manual version for simplicity.  The IDIDIT black powder coated Mustang column helps simplify the rack and pinion conversion while the Grant classic steering wheel added a nice nostalgic touch.

On the suspension side, TCI Engineering includes tubular upper and lower control arms as well as their custom drop spindles.  TCI Engineering offers a myriad of options for this kit, but the only one we took advantage of was the double adjustable coilover package that will help us dial the suspension in between the street and track.  We covered up the spindles with Wilwood’s 12-inch brake kit that is designed for the TCI Engineering system.  They feature a four piston Dynalite caliper and matching brake pads, plus all the necessary hardware to mount the brakes.  The front braking system was completed with the addition of Wilwood’s tandem manual brake master cylinder and new adjustable distribution block.

On the Near Horizon – The Rear Suspension

Our next project car update for the Mustang will be the rear suspension build, and yesterday we were greeted with the first component to that segment – the Strange Engineering 9-inch.  The rear end has been shortened one inch to help support a better wheel and tire package.  To aid with that fitment, we will be doing a budget mini tub install as well.

No spool here, as our 9-inch features a 35 spline Detroit Locker differential and Strange’s 35-spline S/T series axles. We selected a 3.73 rear gear ratio that will work perfectly with the TCI Auto 4L80E transmission we plan to put into it.  A few upgrades include a chrome moly yoke and aluminum pinion support.  Mounting on the big Ford ends will be a set of Wilwood 12-inch rotors with Dynalite four-piston calipers – similar to our front system but with an internal E-brake kit.

Our front brake system is nearly identical to the rear, minus the Wilwood hubs required for the front suspension.

When building a race car, one of the most frustrating and misunderstood parts of the build can be the roll cage.  Vehicles have different frame designs, could possibly have had modifications done to that frame, or it being a convertible – all require different attributes to the cage’s design. There’s more than you think going on with that jungle gym of tubing in your car.

I could easily write an article five times this size when it comes to explaining how roll cages work in a variety of ETs and car configurations.  I am going to explain the key rules and requirements on building a 10 point, or 8.50 and slower, roll cage for unibody vehicles per the 2010 NHRA Rule Book.  We will be using our 60 horsepower, soon to be 1000 horsepower 1965 Mustang Project “Biting the Bullitt” as our example.  The cage we will be using is a pre-bent piece from Chris Alston’s Chassisworks.

The Goal of our ’65 Mustang

As with any project, it’s a good idea to figure out what you’re going to do with it in the long haul.  Meaning if your vehicle is going to run low 10s, but then might see the 9s sometime, building the faster cage in the car will lead to less headaches down the road.  Biting the Bullitt will run 9s off the bat, and there aren’t any immediate plans to push it under an 8.50 ET.  Our power will come from a Dart block-and head-equipped 427ci small block Ford that features an AED blow thru carburetor and a Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger to produce in the neighborhood of 1,000 horsepower.  This is going to be achieved through a Crower hydraulic roller valvetrain and a moderate amount of boost.  This will allow us to drive the Mustang around town when we want, then throw the slicks in the trunk and head to the dragstrip.

The best part of the Mustang was its very clean interior and it needs to stay clean.

Our Roll Cage – a Chris Alston’s Chassisworks pre-bent 10-point

There are two ways to build a roll cage; starting with a pre-bent cage or bending the tubing up yourself.  If you have a popular vehicle, there is a good chance Chassisworks already makes a pre-bent cage for it.  “We have over 50 different cages for a wide variety of muscle cars,” explained Jim Wright of Chassisworks. “When we make a production roll cage kit, we actually get the vehicles in here at the shop and test fit the parts accordingly, and not just rely on given measurements.” A pre-bent cage reduces the cost of installation and the need for a tubing bender.  The advantage of bending your own cage is being able to get the bends as tight to the car as possible, but don’t dismiss pre-bent cages; they have come a long way.

The Alston kit we selected is made from 1 5/8-inch mild steel with 1 1/4-inch main hoop support bars.  “If a customer wants a custom cage that we do not already offer, they can use our custom roll cage worksheet and we can bent it to their specifications,” said Wright. The tubing size requirement on 8.50 cages are 1 5/8-inch x .118-inch mild steel or .083-inch chromoly. For 10-second and slower cars that only need roll bars, the size minimum is 1 3/4 O.D. x .118 mild steel or .083 4130 chromoly tubing, so this is another aspect to take into play when building or expanding a roll cage as your vehicle gets faster.  Also, while a chromoly cage is typically lighter due to its lower minimum wall thickness, it can only be TIG welded, while mild steel can be TIG or MIG welded, though the welds need to be clean, complete without holes, and show no signs of grinding.

The cage we selected comes with:

• Main Hoop
• Main Hoop Support Bars
• Door Bars
• Front Down Bars
• Windshield Bar
• Cross Brace/Harness Bar
Rear Down Bars
• Extra Straight Tubing For Optional Extra Bars

Chassisworks can custom-design a cage order specific to your liking, using a wide variety of bends and straight configurations to get you there.

In addition to the roll cage, we also opted for a pair of swing out door bars to make getting in and out of the car easier, as well as subframe connectors with X-brace from sister company Total Control Products.

The complete Chris Alston's Chassisworks roll cage, swing-out door bars, and window net kit

Caging the Sloth – Six Cylinders Sees 10-Points

Nothing screams speed like a 60 horsepower Mustang with a 10-point roll cage in it.  Though it might be safer driving it now, it sure hasn’t aided in the acceleration factor with the added weight.  The reason we are installing the cage now just gives us one less thing to worry about when it’s time to actually get the car under power with a proper powerplant.

When it comes to preparing to install a roll cage, you will want to remove everything from inside the car that you can.  This includes carpet, seats, and door panels.  As you know, welding is extremely hot and it isn’t shy when it comes to burning a hole in anything.  If you have a headliner that needs replaced and want to keep one in the car with the cage, replace it beforehand to save yourself a big headache.  We will go through the steps later when it comes to protecting the headliner during the final welding.

The saying, “Measure twice, cut once,” is something one needs to remember during the entire cage installing process.  The pre-bent cages are purposefully made long to accommodate for variances in vehicle builds.  Also, tack weld the entire cage in place before completely welding it to ensure a better fit.  Additionally, whatever seat and seat mounts you plan to use for the vehicle should be installed.  The driver, or someone of similar build, should be present for the variety of clearance checks.  We took the Mustang to local racing shop Mckinney Motorsports to have the cage installed.

Floor Support Plates

The Chassisworks roll cage kit comes complete with pre-cut 6-inch x 6-inch plates for your floor mounting.  Per the NHRA Rule Book, “On unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted), the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the floor/rocker box.”  If you are going for the bolted option, the .125-inch steel plates must be on top and bottom of the floor and bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts.  Welding the plates to the car does not require the use of bottom plates but must be completely welded to the floor.

Anything that attaches to the floor needs to be attached via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates. These plates can be formed to fit the design of your floor. Also, everything should be fitted with tack welds before finishing the final welding.

The Main Hoop

Generally the main hoop is installed as close to the roof or headliner as you can without it rubbing.  The NHRA rules state, “All roll bars must be within six inches of the rear, or side, of the driver’s head, extend in height at least three inches above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position or be within one inch of the roof/headliner in the area above the driver’s helmet, and be at least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within one inch of the driver’s door.”  You can lean the main hoop back or forwards to get the proper measurements as well.  Additionally the bottom of the main hoop must be welded to a pair of the aforementioned 6-inch x 6-inch plates.

The roll bar from the Chassisworks kit fit amazingly well.  “From a safety standpoint, we would always recommend a roll cage instead of a roll bar because it’s safer in a roll over condition, even if your ET doesn’t call for it yet,” explained Wright. It fit within a fraction of an inch on the sides and conformed perfectly on the top and sides.  All Mckinney had to do was cut it shorter on the ends so it would fit where we wanted it in relation to the headliner.

Measure twice, cut once. Make sure everything is as level as possible and the front main hoop bars are equal in height

The Cross Bar/Harness Brace – The First Tube to Notch

The cross bar or harness brace serves multiple functions. It increases the structural rigidity to prevent forward or lateral collapse.  Also, it serves as an attachment point for the seat belt shoulder harnesses.  The harnesses typically attach via a welded bracket and a bolt to a bracket on the belt’s harness or a wrap around-style belt.  The bar must be installed within four inches of the driver’s shoulders vertically, but not above them.

A critical step in building a roll cage is tube notching.  You cannot weld a flat-cut tube end to an intersection of another piece of the cage and expect it to be safe.  Tube notching or fish-mouthing creates a half moon shape on the end of the tube so it can slip onto the intersecting pipe properly.  Usually a specifically designed tube notcher or drill press that allows for variable angles are used with a hole saw on the end.  If the cost is too much, a hand grinder can also work, though it can be less accurate.

Grinding is a method used to notch the tubing, though a tube notching tool is ideal. A spare, short piece of tube to test fit the notched tube onto while grinding comes in handy.

The Forward Hoop, Windshield Brace, and Dash Bar

Both the forward hoop and windshield brace rules are vague as written.  The front bar must be one continuous piece of tubing with the same diameter and thickness specs as the main hoop. It welds to the top corner of the main hoop and follows the roof and A-pillar line to another 6-inch x 6-inch plate in the floor.  The forward hoop can go through or before the dash.  The straight bar coming off the main hoop should be parallel to the roof before it makes its first bend.  Also there can be bars that connect to the front down bars, go through the firewall and connect down into the front frame rails.  Wright explained, “When you get into the 8 second zone the down bars to the front frame rail really help stiffen the chassis. They are typically harder to put in though with the stock dashes, heater, and wiring installed.”

Not wanting to hack up the dash in our Mustang, McKinney installed the bar before the dash, set back about an inch from it.  This gave them the space they needed to fit a stock dash pad back in and also for the kick panels that include speakers.  The Chassisworks forward hoop bars come pre bent and fit awesome.  All McKinney needed to do was shorten them to fit accordingly.

The upper windshield bar is another important piece of the cage.  It acts as a supporting brace for the forward hoop and also to keep the roof from collapsing.  Again, with the same spec tubing as the forward bars and main hoop, it must be welded at the top of the windshield support to the two forward bars.  The bar has a slight bend on both ends so that it can conform to the windshield’s shape and to tuck it up out of the driver’s view. “The windshield bar is one of the most important bars in a roll cage during a roll over situation,” explained Wright.  “It keeps the front of the roof from crushing in on the driver.”

The front main hoop bars are tack welded in place before the dash. They also sit about an inch back from the dash to allow for the dash pad to be installed along with the kick pannels

A dash bar is not required in vehicles that have their firewalls altered by one square foot or less, though a dash bar can be useful to tie the lower part of the front cage together to reduce chassis flex.  Before-dash forward down bars can be tricky when it comes to installing a dash bar as it can be in the way of your legs, though there isn’t anything that states you couldn’t bend the bar back towards the firewall and run it across there.  Though we decided against the dash bar for now, the NHRA rule states, “If the OEM firewall has been modified (in excess of one square foot for transmission removal, not including bolted in components) a lower windshield or dash bar of 1 1/4 x .058-inch 4130 chromoly or 1 1/4 x .118-inch mild steel is mandatory connecting the forward cage supports.”

Door Sidebars, Swing Outs, and Rocker Bars

Both door sidebars and rocker bars must be constructed of the same 1 5/8-inch .118-inch thick mild steel as the main hoop and and forward down bars.  The door bars are there to protect the driver in a side impact crash and must be welded to the main hoop.  From the main hoop, it must pass in between the driver’s elbow and shoulder.  There is no specific angle or point in which the forward side of the door bar must intersect, though it should weld to the forward bar near the bottom 6-inches.

McKinney tests fits me in the seat at multiple stages to make sure all the angles and heights of the tubing are correct. This is all done with the seat I plan to race with installed in place.

Swing out door bars can help a driver and passenger get into a vehicle without needed to go to Yoga classes, and as long as your car is going to be slower than an 8.50 ET, are completely NHRA legal.  The Chassisworks kit features a clevis-type connector that is over the minimum thickness required by the NHRA.  The swing-out rules are pretty broad and are as follows:

1 5/8-inch O.D. x .083-inch CM or .118-inch MS minimum. Bolts/pins must be 3/8-inch-diameter steel, minimum and in double shear at both ends.

b. Male or female clevis(es) permitted. Male clevis must use two minimum 1/8-inch-thick brackets (CM or MS) welded to each roll- cage upright; female must use minimum 1/4-inch-thick bracket (CM or MS) welded to each roll-cage upright. Pins must be within 8 inches of the vertical portion of both the forward and main hoops. A half-cup backing device must be welded to the vertical portion of the main hoop (inward side) or the upper end of the swing-out bar (outward side), minimum .118-inch wall (CM or MS) extending at least 1 5/8 inches past the center of the pins. A clevis assembly using a minimum .350-inch-thick male component and two minimum .175-inch-thick female components may use a 1/2-inch-diameter Grade 5 bolt and does not require a half-cup backing device.

The swing out door bar is tacked in place to the main hoop so it passes in between the shoulder and elbow

c.Sliding sleeves of 1 3/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS, with minimum 2-inch engagement, are permitted in lieu of the upper pin/cup.

d. All bolt/pin holes in the swing-out bar must have at least one-hole diameter of material around the outside of the hole.

As mentioned above, the swing out door bar pins must be within eight inches of the vertical sections of the front and rear main hoop.  Typically, the clevis receiver is welded to the roll cage at the shoulder.  The lower portion can use a small piece of pipe welded to the bottom of the front main hoop bar and then the clevis is attached at this point.  This allows the needed height for the swing out to function properly.  What we did was install the door bar higher up on the front main hoop and in the same fashion as the rear hoop – welded directly to the hoop.

The larger clevis joint is designed to slip into the end of the door bar.  Since there are variances in the minimum wall thickness on the tubes, some grinding on the inside of the tubes might be required to fit the clevis in snugly.  After that, it is completely welded to the pipe.

The completed door bar sits up high enough on the bottom end to be able to swing out and was able to clear the arm rest as well.

Rocker bars are only required when the OEM frame rails don’t run below and outside of the driver’s legs.  The frame rail acts as a side impact support and a rocker bar must be added in place if it.  This also goes for any car with a modified floor or rocker box, though modifying the transmission tunnel up to six square feet is permitted.  The NHRA rule book states:

“A rocker or sill bar, minimum 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058-inch CM or MS rectangular, is mandatory in any car with a modified floor or rocker box within the roll-cage uprights. Rocker bar must be installed below and outside of driver’s legs and must tie into the main hoop, the forward hoop, frame, frame extension, or side diagonal. Rocker bar may not tie into swing-out side bar support. If rocker bar ties into side diagonal more than 5 inches (edge to edge) from forward roll-cage support or main hoop, a 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS brace/gusset is mandatory between the diagonal and forward roll cage support or main hoop.”

Almost Done! Main Hoop Support Braces, Rear Down Bars, and Roll Cage Gussets

The roll cage "D" bars install over the top of the subframe connectors

Believe it or not, this section is the easiest part of it all.  The “D” bars or main hoop support bars are designed for unibody vehicles in which the roll bar is connected to the floor instead of a separate frame.  The D bars are designed to support the main hoop from movement under impact as a triangulated point of reference.  Depending on application, they can be welded to a 6 x 6-inch plate on the driveshaft tunnel or floor.  On the top side, the D bars are welded in the corner of where the harness bar and roll bar meet. Since we are installing a set of TCP subframe connectors, we placed the D bars over the top of the connectors. This way we can weld the connectors to the plates from underneath the car to provide even better protection.  The NHRA rulebook states the following:

“For rear-wheel-drive cars, with neither a frame nor subframe connectors, but with complete OEM floor (from the firewall to the rear of the trunk; exception: the rear inner wheel wells may be tubbed with steel or aluminum), the 1 1/4- inch x .058-inch CM (or .118-inch MS) “D” bars may be welded to conventional 6-inch x 6-inch x 1/8-inch form fitted/contoured plates attached to the driveshaft tunnel. Otherwise, the “D” bars must be attached to frame, subframe, or subframe connectors.”

The supplied rear down bars fit great. They went through a spot in the rear package tray and weld in right behind the rear seat.

The rear down bars or rear support bars must attach to the floor of the trunk… somewhere. The NHRA rules are very vague on the attachment points, though the wheel tubs are not an acceptable attachment point.  Also, there is a variety of rules on the total diameter of the tubing depending on the length and amount of cross braces utilized. If using 1 5/8-inch tubing, the rear bars can be any length or angle.  This means you could write your name in cursive with the rear bars, and as long as they connect to the rear floor, they will technically be legal.  With this tubing, the top side of the rear down bars can be welded anywhere on the horizontal section of the main hoop or five inches or less vertically down the sides.

A rear cross brace was a simple add in to increase strength and reduce flex

We opted for the angled rear bars on our kit for two reasons; first to allow for more head room for any rear passengers, and second was so we could re-install the rear seat.  We wanted the rear bars to weld right behind the rear seat to allow for more trunk space since most of the rear trunk is actually occupied by the fuel cell.  Since we will be adding in mini tubs later, we allowed for the additional four inches of space we needed from the stock tubs.  This spot is also very close to the frame rail and we will later box the plate to the frame rail when we install the tubs.  Having some extra material left over, a support bar was welded between the two down bars for additional strength.

While there are measures you can take to weld the majority of the top welds, in some instances (especially with headliners) it can be hard to weld the top-most part of a bar. I called up NHRA to ask their tech department about that and they mentioned that if at least 75% of the joint is welded, a gusset on both sides of the tube can be added to take place of the missing welding.  While the tech did not have specs on the gusset’s requirements, some online sources have said they must be 1 1/2-inch long on each side and be at least a quarter inch thick.

Gussets used where the front main hoop connects to the main hoop. NHRA says you must have at least 75% of the welded joint completed to be able to reinforce them with the gussets.

Installing the Total Control Products Subframe Connectors

Subframe connectors should be anyone’s first purchase on a unibody vehicle.  Not only are they cost effective, but they tie the front and rear frame rails together and drastically improve the vehicle’s resistance to flexing. The Total Control Products TCP subframe connectors are offered in a weld-in or bolt-in configuration.  For our project, we selected the weld-in versions.  The connectors are specifically designed for first generation Mustangs and fit perfectly in place.

The Total Control Products weld-in subframe connectors with bolt-in cross bar and driveshaft safety loop.

To get the connectors installed as flat as possible to the floor, it is recommended to jack the connectors into the the floor to help persuade connectors to fit.

Once in place, Sean tack welded the connector in place and followed along with a complete weld of both the front and rear attachment points. Also, anywhere the connectors set flat to the floor, they were welded in place there - including where our roll cage D bars reside.

The subframe connectors can be optioned with Chassisworks’ bolt-in cross brace that can also be optioned with a driveshaft safety loop.  Since our stock exhaust is in the way for now, we did not install the brace.  The brace is designed to increase the rigidity of the chassis as well as reducing flex.  It attaches with two bolts on all four corners, though the front bolt holes have to be drilled through the frame rail as well.  The driveshaft safety loop attaches to the brace with four bolts.

Bottom Line – Get a Rule Book!

While we offered a lot of tips and tricks when it comes to installing a 10-point roll cage, it does not take place of a rule book.  They are cheap and indisposable when it comes to having your cage certified.  Also, there are other rules that must be met to make your vehicle legal for a certain time and speed outside of the roll cage.  It’s a good idea to consult with the tracks you race with locally to inquire about any additional rules they require to race. Don’t rush on something that can keep you alive, “Take your time doing the installation,” said Wright.  “All of our cages are made oversized in length so you can fit it as tight as possible and the tighter you can fit it, the better results you are going to have”. Remember, a roll cage is designed to keep you safe in case there is a crash, so don’t skimp on your safety!

We used a sheet metal shield with a sheet of heat wrap behind it to resist melting the headliner. Also, taking breaks and allowing it to cool will keep the heat lower.

The finished and painted roll cage with the interior reinstalled.

This last Thursday and Friday Video Editor Jeff Garrison was at QMP Racing filming our 427ci small block Ford build.  During the filming he took pictures on my Canon 7D as well, but like a kid in a candy store, I requested some cell phone cam shots as well during the build.

Brad Lagman and the QMP Racing team started on the machining, which took up most of the day Thursday.  The Dart Iron Eagle block was loaded up and CMM’d first to map out the block.  Once the CMM had finished getting the coordinates it needed, it began opening up the lifter bores to make way for the lifter bushings.  From there, the block was decked and line honed.  The final bore hone was done on another machine and washed afterwards.

In the mean time, the Eagle H-beam rods and Ross forged pistons were paired up.  Brad set the proper gap on the Total Seal AP steel rings, loose enough to support the 13-18 psi of boost we are going to need to hit our goal.  Also the Eagle 4340 forged crank was balance tested and came back perfect, not needing any mallory or further drilling.  Though, a second key was added into the crank to make sure the Innovators West balancer stayed in place.

Friday started with the crank in the block along with a test rod and piston to check for proper rod and crank clearance.  A light amount of grinding needed to be done on the bottom of the bores to ensure proper clearance before the block got its final bath before assembly.  The block with lifter bushings, oil feed restrictors, and pipe fittings installed was ready to be assembled. The ARP main studs were snug in place along with the coated main bearings.  Eagle’s crank fit right back into place and was secured with Dart’s 4-bolt, splayed, billet steel main caps.  The slugs were dropped into their corresponding holes and the short block was complete.

The Melling oil pump with standard pressure and higher volume was put in place.  Since we plan to gut the shock towers out of the Mustang and convert over to a Mustang II type suspension, a rear sump Canton oil pan replaced the traditional front sump setup.  The Netgaskets.com Cometic head gaskets were put in place next as the Dart 225cc CNCed heads were slid down the ARP head studs. The Crower-supplied custom grind hydraulic roller camshaft made its way into the motor and the Crower shaft mount rocker stands were bolted in place, though the stainless shaft mount rockers have not been bolted down, since we needed to order push rods that were dialed into our application.

The last order of business was to mount up the Ford Performance Solution’s ported Edelbrock Super Victor intake manifold and AED blow-thru carburetor.  The Paxton NOVI-2500 supercharger and Renegade bracket system was mounted up to the motor for pictures sake, though it still needs to be properly clocked, along with a fabricated intake pipe that will mount up to Paxton carburetor Powerhat.

That’s concludes our teaser for now.  The engine dyno testing will take place in the next couple weeks and will follow with a full tech article on the engine build and hopefully the engine will make its way into the engine bay around February!

1000 Horsepower, 91 octane, and reliability, all words that you normally don’t hear together. Right here is the newest recruit, a blown and carbureted, 427 cubic inch small block Ford for our ’65 Mustang we call “Biting the Bullitt.”  Our quest behind this project is to walk the fine line between all-out power while keeping it reliable enough to cruise on the streets. The ‘65 Mustang currently has its anemic inline six still installed in it, but that’s all gonna change.

The men behind the engine build is QMP Racing.  They will be performing the machining, assembly, and dyno work.  Brad Lagman is heading up the project and will be doing a few trick things to our combination, including lifter bushings and some custom oiling features. We will be filming the machining and assembly over two days and then a full day on the dyno to dial in the combination.

An Overview of the Short Block

The heart of our build is Dart’s ultra durable Iron Eagle block. Dart offers this block. Going for maximum cubes, we selected the nine-five deck in a 4.125 bore. Dart recommends a maximum bore of 4.165, though you might not want to go that big if it is a forced induction application. Reinforced head bolt bosses are blind tapped to prevent leaks while extra thick decks prevent head gasket leaks. The block features Dart’s proven priority main oiling system that feeds the main bearings before being pumped to the cam. This system also promotes better oil pressure and does not need a high pressure pump. The bottom end comes with large journal, 351 Ceveland mains and splayed billet steel four bolt main caps. Dart also offers billet aluminum main caps as an upgrade.

Ross 9:1 Pistons, Eagle 4340 H-Beam rods with the ESP finishing process, and Total Seal AP rings

The rotating assembly starts with Ross 4.125 bore, 9:1 dish pistons that are based from a single piece of 2618 billet bar stock that has been heat treated and aged to a T61 condition, just like a fine wine. They will be wrapped with a set of file-fitted Total Seal AP steel rings which are among the flattest, tightest tolerance piston rings available. The pistons and rings were hung on a set of Eagle’s 6.200 length, 4340 H-beam rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts. The rods have been surface treated with Eagle’s ESP process that is designed to help shed oil and increase horsepower. To compliment the pistons and rods, we went with a Eagle 4340 forged, internally balanced, 4-inch stroke crankshaft that also features the ESP finishing process.

Innovators West new Super Duty dampener with upgraded blower hub and 3/8-inch hub bolts.

A properly matched oiling system is crucial to an engine’s survival. The Melling high volume, standard pressure oil pump supplies the additional oil we need to lubricate our Paxton supercharger while retaining standard pressure due to Dart’s priority main oil feeding design. The bottom end is covered up with a Canton extra capacity, front sump oil pan that is perfect for a street/strip application and is secured with ARP fasteners.

QMP is machining a second key in our crank that was designed for our Innovators West Super Duty dampener. It is an all new design that sports an upgraded blower hub and larger 3/8-inch hub bolts. The hub is even so thick that it includes a new, thinner front main seal.

Capping it off with the Long Block

Dart's CNC Pro 1 heads come with 225cc CNCed runners that flow a 325 CFM

The cylinder heads are the main organs when it comes to controlling new air and fuel, as well as exhausting the spent fuel. Our cylinder head of choice are the Dart Pro 1 225cc, CNCed cylinder heads. They feature full CNCed runners that flow A LOT of air. They can move 325 CFM on the intake and 235 CFM on the exhaust at seven hundred lift. The assembled heads come fitted with high quality components, including dual valve springs and titanium retainers.

Crower's ultra durable stainless steel shaft mount rockers in a 1.6 ratio and upgraded roller bearing tip

Backing the Dart heads is a set of Crower’s stainless steel shaft mount rockers. These are extreme duty rockers that feature a 1.6 ratio. The shaft mount rockers heavily resist flex under load while keeping the rotating weight low onto the valve. The needle bearing tip option further reduces resistance and valve guide wear. Since our 427 is designed to see a lot street driving, we again turned to Crower for their hydraulic roller tie bar lifters. These lifters feature a redesigned body and bearing for superb longevity. Tying the rocker to the lifter is a Crower one piece push rod. The Crower custom ground hydraulic roller camshaft features a 260/266 duration at fifty, .619 lift and a 114 degree lobe separation.

A direct line of slight and a port volume large enough to flow the air you need is critical to a boosted application. We selected Edelbrock’s Super Victor intake manifold that features everything we are looking for. To enhance the intake manifold even further, Ford Performance Solutions hand ported our Super Victor for a smoother flow over the casting and boasts an additional 45 CFM of airflow.

Providing the air/fuel mixture to the intake manifold is a AED 950 CFM blow thru carburetor. AED wet flows and designs their carburetors specific to a customer’s combination so that it performs the best it can right out of the box, on both the street and strip.  Aiding the fuel delivery from the AED carburetor will be a Snow Performance water/methanol kit that will eliminate the need for a intercooler while giving enough additional octane to run a more aggressive tune-up.

The spark comes from none other than MSD with their mechanical, billet body, pro race distributor. Accompanying the distributor is a set of MSD 8.5 MM plug wires. On the dyno, the ignition will be finished off with a HVC-II coil and 7531 box, that will later go in the Mustang.

Paxton's new NOVI-2500 supercharger boasts a total power output of 1300 horsepower with its new redesigned wheel.

For our power adder we turned to Paxton and their all-new NOVI-2500. It features a redesigned compressor wheel that allows it to produce over 1300 horsepower at 30 PSI of boost. The supercharger feeds Paxton’s new Forcepower carburetor hat, which has been engineered to distribute air evenly across the top of the carburetor, that can be a problem with other carburetor bonnets on the market. Exhausting the additional off-acceleration boost pressure from the system is Vortech’s Maxflow BV57 blow off valve.

Acting as the glue to hold all our components together are a full line of ARP bolts and studs as well as Fel Pro and Cometic gaskets that were supplied by netgaskets.com.

Eagle's 4340 crank with the ESP surface finishing treatment.

The parts sprawled out on the shop floor.

When you are working with a vehicle that makes around 65 horsepower to the rear wheels, you need that power to work as efficiently as possible – loosing up hill drag races to semi trucks can be embarrassing.  Adding insult to injury is a vehicle that can’t even get good gas mileage on that little horsepower.  If you have ever owned a classic car with a stock inline 6 cylinder, you know exactly what I am talking about. Though with DUI’s (Davis Unified Ignition) HEI Performance distributor, we were going to gain back some of those lost ponies… and fuel economy.

Our Project “Biting the Bullitt” 1965 Mustang still retains its early-model 170ci inline 6 cylinder.  These engines made right at 105 horsepower from the factory in prime condition, and we know that in its ‘less than prime’ state, we are lucky if it’s making 65 of those ponies to the rear wheels.  We are going to be yanking the dying engine for a 1000HP 427ci in a few months, but I wanted to get all I could out of the engine before it is yanked.

When I bought the Mustang, it had been sitting in the previous owner’s garage for some time.  Even though it ran, it ran rough.  Running wide open from stop light to stop light just to keep up with traffic wasn’t making things any better.  I started with all the simple updates – new air filter, PCV, spark plugs, and a oil change.  None of that helped.  Next up I installed a rebuilt Autolite 1100 carburetor.  While this helped regain some of the drivability, it didn’t help the performance factor at all.

The Load-O-Matic was one of the first types of vacuum advance distributors

Ditching the Load-O-Matic distributor, or should I say a Load-of-….

A Load-O-Matic distributor is an old bit of technology and provided one of the first versions of a vacuum advance distributor.  While this was the hot ticket when it was new, it has since been deemed archaic and troublesome. The design is far from the “just hook it to your intake manifold somewhere” and uses a dedicated port for the vacuum reference that uses a blend of manifold and venturi vacuum to advance through the points-type distributor.  All of this action is controlled through an integrated Spark Control Valve (looks like an externally mounted power valve) to relegate the blend of vacuum sources.  That means if you need to replace the vehicle’s carburetor, one that has an integrated Spark Control Valve will be needed for the engine to operate properly. Worst part of all, these distributors had no previsions for mechanical advance.

A popular upgrade for the Load-O-Matics is to upgrade it to a electronic type ignition module to get rid of the points parts.  This is all well and good, but there is nothing that you can do to fix the vacuum advance portion of the distributor, which is also very prone to cracking and vacuum leaks.

A Simple Answer to your Prayers – The DUI Plug and Play Distributor

DUI has a wide variety of plug and play HEI-type distributors as well as Ford Duraspark offerings as well.  We went with the HEI-type due to its simplicity – there are literally two wires here.  Also, DUI goes a bit further than most companies by custom calibrating the distributor to your driving style.  That means if you have a stock vehicle running on 87 octane or a highly modified car running on premium, Performance Distributors will hook you up accordingly.  But even the best part lies in the advance which offers a traditional vacuum style advance that will hook up directly to a intake manifold vacuum source.  Also we chose a set of pre-assembled and labeled LiveWires to help deliver that additional spark energy.

DUI Street/Strip Distributor 39820-144

• Custom calibrated timing curve for 87 octane operation
• Two wire connection (power and tach) with integrated coil
• 50,000 volts of spark energy
• Traditional vacuum advance that hooks to an intake manifold vacuum source
• Billet base construction

LiveWires C9069-200

• Pre-fitted and labeled per cylinder
• High temperature sleeves
• Spiral wound core prevents electronic interference
• Comes in red, black, blue, purple, yellow, and silver

Installing the DUI distributor and LiveWires

First disconnect the wires running from the stock distributor to coil and the vacuum advance line. Remove the cap and note the direction in which the rotor is pointing. We recommend hand cranking the balancer over until the distributor lines up with the number one spark plug wire so there is no confusion how how the distributor lines up.

There is just the one bolt that holds the distributor in place by the hold down clamp. The distributor uses a keyed oil pump drive that might get stuck and not want to come out easy. I found that lightly and quickly rotating the crank pulley back and fourth while pulling up on the distributor from the mid-shaft area made it easier for the distributor to come out.

There are three fastening tabs and one connector that must be pulled to get the DUI distributor cap completely off. Line the rotor up in the same spot, making sure the distributor keys up with the oil pump. A little persuasion was needed to get the distributor back in place, using the same method on the crank pulley jiggling allowed for an easier install.

The biggest part of the actual install might be a little bit of wiring. The DUI distributor requires a full 12 volt power wire and most stock vehicles will more than likely be on the ballast resisted 7-8 volt source. An easy way to check is to turn the key to the on position (not start) and use a simple volt meter at the coil. If the wire is resisted, you can wire a bypass hot 12 volt wire from the key switch to the distributor, remove the resistor, or wire a simple relay.

For the sake of time and simplicity, we went with the relay. We wired the existing resisted power wire to the relay’s switched power source, a power and ground to the battery and then the new 12 volt wire directly to the BAT terminal on the distributor. Then if you have a TACH, there is a terminal right next to the BAT hook up, and that’s it!

The LiveWires come with a tube of dielectric grease to keep the boots from sticking to the spark plugs. We applied a little inside the boot and also on the spark plug's porcelain. Just incase you forgot, the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4

With the vacuum advance not connected, we fired up the car on the first try. When it comes to timing the car, we went with the vacuum method.  The stock Mustang balancer is notorious for having problems with the balancer slipping and not showing true time.  After setting the idle air mixture again, we rotated the distributor until the maximum amount of vacuum was present at idle.  We then utilized the vacuum port on the back side of the intake manifold for our reference.  As a double check, we drove it and checked the plugs to make sure there wasn’t any detonation.

We were impressed with the performance we gained from the DUI distributor.  There was a noticeable difference in reliability and the power gain.  Also, we picked up about 4 MPG over our old Load-O-Matic.  For about two hours worth of work, the upgrade was totally worth it.  Now we can get some lasting mileage out of our small six, that is, until we yank it for our 1000 HP 427ci monster.

The Mustang is currently equipped with a virtually stock 170ci inline six cylinder

We are all about keeping things fresh here at powerTV, and one of those ways is by creating interesting project car builds.  We are proud to announce our next project build (which is actually one of my personal cars) called “Biting the Bullitt”.

The name is two fold. It could be perceived as Biting on the original Mustang Bullitt, driven by Steve McQueen, that was actually a Highland Green 1968 Fastback – with the only resemblance to our Mustang being the faded dark green paint. The REAL premise behind the Mustang build to show the fine line that we walk between a simple build, reliability, and all-out horsepower.

It will run in the 9-second range and make 1000hp to the crank, though it will have parts that will support nearly 1500hp through a Dart block and heads, hence the reliability segment.  It will feature a AED carbureted blow thru, Paxton centrifugal supercharger setup to run on pump gas and no intercooler, though it will have octane on demand via a Snow Performance Methanol Injection Kit.  The most technologically advanced portion of the setup will be the MSD Digital 7+ 7531 ignition, to dial in the timing ramps for smoother power delivery through the small rear tires.

The best feature of this car is that it has an ultra clean interior, so not much will need to be done there.

It will be driven either with 17s and drag radials daily, or 15s and drag radials. It will be getting a pre-fabbed Chris Alston 10-point roll cage that will feature swing-out door bars to help make getting in the car easier when driving it on the street.  We still plan to keep a full interior and back seat in the Mustang; after all it was the cleanest part of the car.  The exterior will get a fresh coat of paint and new chrome trim for a simple yet clean appearance.

For suspension it will receive a simple mini tub to comfortably accommodate a 275 drag radial and leaf spring setup, accompanied by a Strange 9-inch rear end.  The front will be converted to a Mustang II front suspension so the shock towers can be eliminated, which will allow for much easier working access to our 9.500 deck, 351-based Dart block.

So we saved the best for last, right?  The engine build is nearly underway and it will feature a Dart Iron Eagle 9.500 deck 351w block with billet main caps.  The heads will be Dart’s 225cc CNC-ported heads, with an Edelbrock Super Victor intake and AED blow thru carburetor controlling the air/fuel mixture.  Forced induction will be provided by a Paxton Novi series supercharger to help produce the boost we need to reach our 1000hp goal, and a Snow Performance water/meth kit will give us the octane on demand we need while retaining 91 octane during cruising.

The faded green paint and tarnished chrome will be completely refurbished

The rotating assembly will consist of Eagle’s 4340 crank and H-beam rods with their ESP finish.  Pistons will be a set from Ross with a 9:1 compression ratio and Total Seal’s AP steel rings. Innovators West will keep the rotating assembly operating correctly with one of their double key blower balancers.  Crower will be our source for valvetrain components with a complete hydraulic roller setup to relieve the need for lashing constantly when compared to a race-type solid roller setup, and maximizing our street driving experience.

Melling is supplying one of their race-inspired standard pressure pumps with Canton’s rear sump conversion oil pan and pickup holding the oil in place.  Netgaskets.com will be supplying all our gaskets via Cometic and Fel Pro while ARP studs and bolts will bring the long block together.  Creating the firepower to the long block will come from a full MSD ignition, including their HVC II coil and 7531 ignition box.

The machining, assembly and engine dyno work will be taking place at QMP Racing.  QMP is a one-stop race shop that will be doing a couple trick things to our block, one of them being the addition of lifter bushings.  They will then assemble the engine and strap it to their engine dyno in hopes of breaking our four digit goal.

Stay tuned in as we will be writing stories on the progress of our build throughout the entire process, including our thrash to completion once it’s time to install the engine in the car!

The '65 features a updated '66 gauge cluster.