If glass was flat, there would be a more simple solution: just replace your flat glass with sheets of Lexan, problem solved. But in the race for better aerodynamics, even the side glass is curved on most automobiles, so replacing the heavy glass is a little more complicated. One option is to replace your windows with products from Optic Armor, a leader in manufacturing composite race car, Jeep, drag boat, heavy equipment, and motorcycle windows. Recently, we sat down with Jim Dunham, Optic Armor’s Marketing Manager, to discuss the available windows that they manufacture, how to select the one that’s right for your car, and also how to maintain them.

From street cars to dragsters, to motorcycles to industrial tractors; Optic Armor makes composite windows for just about any application.

About Optic Armor 

Optic Armor is a company that specializes in lightweight, shatter resistant windows for all kinds of different motorsports. Their windows incorporate unique, lightweight and scratch-resistant designs that provide ultimate clarity and all of the characteristics of polycarbonate. You’re probably familiar with polycarbonate if you work around the shop, many protective eyewear is made of the same material because of it’s high impact strength and its scratch resistance.

Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic polymer that is easy to form and mold, but unlike plexiglass it doesn’t give up optical clarity during the process. If you’ve ever dropped your shop glasses and were surprised that they didn’t break or scratch, then you already know that polycarbonate is tough, and reliable.

Optic Armor Replacement Windows

This is Optic Armor's DIBO rear window specifically designed for the '93-02 Camaro/Firebird.

• Amazing optical clarity
• Chemical & scratch resistant inside and out
• 250 times stronger than factory glass
• 50% to 75% the weight of factory glass
• Flexible
• No special cleaners needed
• Various thicknesses available
• Form matches factory glass
• Amazing water shedding capabilities eliminates need for wipers
• Hundreds of applications available

For those of you looking to shave weight from your race car, Optic Armor guarantees that these windows can reduce as much as 75% of the weight that you would normally have with factory glass. Dunham told us, “On a ’93-02 Camaro/Firebird, you’ll drop 47 lbs. from the factory front and rear glass by switching to Optic Armor.”

Going a step further, Optic Armor claims they are an amazing two-hundred-fifty times stronger than the OEM glass. A claim that Dunham makes on the companies behalf due to the incredible amount of man hours spent researching and developing each and every Lexan window that they produce.

Optic Armor promises optical clarity and a form that matches the factory glass to the exact measurement. This makes the car builder’s life much easier, as it ensures a drop-in and worry-free installation.

They have begun expanding their Drop In Blackout Line (DIBO) which is a pre-formed and trim-to-fit, ready to install window. It incorporates the black-out edging known in the industry as the frit, giving your windows a factory installed look. Their expanded line will cover the ’79-present Mustangs, ’93-02 Camaro/Firebirds, ’97-present Corvettes, and ’08-present Dodge Challengers. 

If you take a minute to review the Optic Armor Application Guide, you’ll see that they not only cater to the late-model crowd, but owners of classic musclecars can typically find a replacement for their glass as well. 

With regards to classic musclecars, their application guide includes windows for ’68-69 AMXs, most model year Monte Carlos, Chevelles, Mustangs, Corvettes, Chevy trucks and SUVs, Plymouth Barracudas, Dodge Chargers, and the list goes on. In addition to classic and modern American cars, their coverage also includes many imports.

Optic Armor windows have been chosen by racers like Mark Koeler for his LSX Drag Radial Pontiac Firebird, and are featured in many dragsters from around the world. They choose these windows not only for their weight savings but also for their physical properties as well. On many unibody cars, the windshield is a structural member of the body, so strength and durability also factors into a polycarbonate windshield.

Mark Koehler's LSX Drag Radial Firebird relies on Optic Armor windows to reduce weight without sacrificing strength or safety. Optic Armor is a popular choice among drag racers.

Selecting the Right Windows For Your Application

Now that we’ve brought you up to speed on who Optic Armor is and what they do – how do you know what is best for your own application, and what is appropriate? When it comes to selecting certain components for their car, many enthusiasts want what’s best, but sometimes price plays into the equation, especially in today’s economy.

But we all know that saying, “you get what you pay for” and cutting costs on important components isn’t always a good idea. There’s also the safety factor to consider when you’re replacing something like that big hunk of safety glass in front of you. Windshields are heavy, and part of the extra weight is because of all the safety factors built into the glass to protect the occupants.

Thin acrylic plastic may be lighter, but it doesn’t possess the qualities of Optic Armor’s polycarbonate windows, which will also protect you just like the factory windshield will. So you also need to factor in exactly what your plans are for your car when choosing a replacement window. Is it a car that’s purely built for the track, or is it something that’s street legal but will often see dragstrip duties? These are the questions you need to ask yourself and answer honestly before making your selection.

Optic Armor uses the latest in technology, including a CAD-CAM system to develop their composite pieces.

Optic Armor windows are available in several different thickness levels, ranging from 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4-inch specifications depending on your vehicle. For the availability of your application, please refer to the linked Application Guide. Optic Armor offers multiple varieties of window thickness; partly because of weight savings, but mostly for safety reasons.

When we asked why there are three different levels of thickness, Dunham responded by saying that it’s to meet certain thickness regulations for the different types of motorsports. For example, the SCCA requires 1/4-inch thick windows for competition, while the NHRA specs require 3/16-inch in the front and 1/8-inch for the side windows. The different thicknesses are to accommodate the requirements, and not necessarily to offer choices that competitors can make.

While the windshields are not DOT certified, the side and rear windows are, according to Dunham. For this reason, it’s not recommended that you replace your factory windshield on a street-driven car, especially one that sees regular street use. Even though there are some great benefits and qualities to Optic Armor’s replacement windshields, Uncle Sam is very strict about what can and can’t be used on the street. Again, this goes back to the windshield being a structural part of a unibody vehicle and government regulations play a part into that decision.

If you have a street-legal vehicle that only clicks the speedometer a quarter mile at a time, then the consideration for a polycarbonate windshield allows you to shave some weight, and even more if you’re also replacing the side and rear glass. How thick or thin would depend primarily on the rules and regulations by the sanctioning body when it comes to motorsports. Checking with your local racetracks might give you a better understanding of what is acceptable and what is not.

The thicker versions that Optic Armor offers might be a little heavier, but they still offer a substantial weight savings over factory glass. The thicker windows will also give you somewhat better protection over the thinner material, but again that all plays into what type of racing you’re doing, and where you’re racing. We all want the best of both worlds, but we also know that a gain in one area sometimes means a sacrifice in another.

Installation Techniques

When installing windshield glass, thick urethane makes up for poor fitment issues, and it helps to seal the glass to the windshield frame. Since these polycarbonate windows are not installed with thick urethane adhesive, Jim Dunham told us that these windows are flexible enough to fit into place with either an adhesive, rivets or screws. He also said that that they hold up to years of use thanks to their revolutionary windscreen design.

While adhesive can be used, Dunham’s recommendation for a race car is to attach the windows with the screws that they can provide you with. Race cars are built to consistently run hard an eighth-mile at a time, at minimum, and they experience severe chassis flex due to hard launching. Because of this, adhesive simply won’t cut it and the screw-in method is highly recommended. Optic Armor offers their own hardware for those who choose to secure their windows in this manner.

Before you install your new windows, it’s always best to clean any of the remaining urethane from the window frames to facilitate a clean installation. You’ll want a clean, smooth surface to install the windows so any imperfections in the mounting surface should be addressed prior to installation. 

While side windows are easier to install, you will probably need to enlist the help of a friend for the front and rear window installation. The Optic Armor pieces may be very light, but due to their rather large size they can be awkward to install by yourself. Having an extra pair of hands helps to align the window much easier.

Every window that Optic Armor sells comes with a complete, easy to follow instruction guide to help you throughout the installation process.  It may seem like a simple thing to do, but the instruction guide can be your best friend and save you from simple, overlooked mistakes.

Optic Armor's 1/8-inch windows can be found in cars like this Impala SS. Just like the other windows they offer in 3/16- and 1/4-inch, Optic Armor ensures optimum safety, and superb visibility from their lightweight design.

Caring For Your Optic Armor Windows

Other aftermarket composite window manufacturers make it clear that only specialized cleaning solutions should be used on their products. However, this isn’t the case with Optic Armor’s windows. They tell us that a special foaming solution is not required, suggesting that you can clean them with any household window cleaner without running the risk of fogging the surface.

Optic Armor windows can be found on Rick Ellis' Dodge Challenger, too.

Also, due to the unique manufacturing process their products incorporate special water shedding capabilities that eliminate the need for windshield wipers. While we don’t advocate that you use these windshields on a street-driven vehicle, there are some motorsports where rain is a factor and this quality is an added benefit. We asked about their secret formula, but Optic Armor is keeping their lips sealed on that one.

When asked how well these windows hold up to extreme temperatures, Dunham said, “The windows are formed at 400 degrees. We’ve had a few customers with vehicle fires that were quickly extinguished, but the fire left a black residue on the window. The residue was easily wiped off and the customers continued to use the window without issue.” This is not to say that the windows can handle constant, direct flame, however, they can withstand high temperatures without the heat causing permanent damage to the window.

Conclusion

If you’re looking to shed some weight from your race car while maintaining the safety factor, then look into Optic Armor for your lightweight window needs. They take great pride in their work and take extreme measures in supplying the aftermarket with a high quality product.

Being as how BlownZ is no longer a street car, the factory installed safety glass is just added weight. We decided to replace the heavy front windshield and rear hatch glass with Five Star Bodies composite windows. This decision is an obvious one, as safety and performance need to go hand in hand when building the perfect race car.

A Heavy Issue…

Although we didn’t weigh the glass or the composite windows to compare, the weight difference was obvious as soon as we lifted them. While the difference in weight alone gives most racers a reason to switch over to plastic there are many more reasons to do so. For example, in the event of a crash we won’t have to worry about broken glass flying into our faces. Plus, the Five Star windows are designed to pop out if we find ourselves in such a situation.

To learn more about our new windows, we’ve contacted Corey Shultz, Manager over at Five Star Bodies. Shultz provided us with installation tips, recommendations on which windows are appropriate for our application, and how-to’s on prolonging the life of our window package. 

Five Star Sizes and Construction

Five Star composite windows are manufactured using an unique “top-secret” method that’s designed to make them as durable as possible. They’re available in two configurations for the 1993-2002 Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird: pre-cut to fit, or oversized so the car builder can cut the window(s) to the specific application. 

Here, we caught Dean prepping the front Five Star Bodies windshield for installation.

They are also available in two thicknesses levels for the windshield: 1/8, 1/4, and 3/16 of an inch, while the rear can only be had in 1/8 or 3/16-inch making for multiple options for the potential buyer. We chose the pre-cut to fit 3/16-inch front windshield replacement unit (PN 150-6335-2) while opting for the oversized 3/16-inch rear (PN 150-6135-STK). The rear windows are only available in the oversized variety for the fourth-generation F-bodies, allowing us to cut the rear window to mold perfectly into our hatch.

Installation on BlownZ

There are a few different ways on installing the Five Star windows, including using an adhesive or riveting them in. Since we’re shooting for 7-second quarter mile timeslips, Shultz suggested that we should screw the windows in, rather than relying on glue or rivets. “Screws are much more dependable than the adhesive, and isn’t prone to stress cracking like when riveted.” he said.

Our Power Automedia shop dawgs will be handling the task at hand, so we’ll be following along with the installation as they progress. Besides, we love working on our own projects anyway. It gives us the pride of completion, while also not having to worry if they were installed correctly.

The Front Windshield

Beginning with our front windshield, it’s best to make sure that all of the old window sealer and any other gunk is completely removed. This way we can install our new Five Star body window sealer easier and ensure proper fitment.

For obvious reasons, it's always good to have a friend to help you with the install. It makes things about a hundred times easier, and aids in promising a sure fit.

After our windshield frame had been cleaned, Tim and Dean began carefully test-fitting the composite piece to our Camaro. Even though ours is a direct-fit unit, it’s best to always make sure that all four corners line up properly. It’s also strongly advised to leave the applied shipping plastic attached to both windows to prevent any unnecessary scratches to the throughout the installation process. 

Once it became clear that everything was in order, it was then time to mount our windshield in it’s final position. Tim and Dean lined up our windshield perfectly, taping it in place and made sure that everything, including our VIN tag, was squared up. 

Here's what the windshield looks like installed.We left the sipping plastic on to prevent any unnecessary scratching and used tape to help square up our Camaro's VIN tag.

We then applied our allen-head screws in place. Starting in each of the four corners, we worked our way around the entire windshield. The important thing here is not to over tighten so you won’t crack the window. Leaving the plastic on during installation proved to be a very good idea, and it saved us from creating unsightly scratches at every small slip.

Once we were happy with our new windshield placement and knew it was secure, it was time to turn our attention to the rear hatch window. Since our rear window wasn’t pre-cut to fit like our windshield, we would have to break out the powertools. Thankfully, we have a fully-equipped shop filled with just about everything we need.

Here's how our Blown Z currently looks with it's installed Five Star Bodies windshield.

The Rear Hatch Window

Equipped with a plexiglass bladed jigsaw, we set our rear window down on our workbench carefully as not to scratch or damage it in anyway. After taking all of the appropriate measurements, we slowly cut the window down to the correct diameter. When you’re working with thin, composite materials it’s always best to take your time. You don’t want to accidentally take out too much material or crack the window because you were in a hurry. Then you’re only options would be to make another phone call to Five Star Bodies with credit card in hand.

Starting from all four corners help secure the windshield in place, we carefully tightened the screws down as to not crack the plastic. Corey Schultz suggested that when applying the screws to the composite windows, snug them, but don't over tighten.

Seeing the process through without any issues, we checked for any gaps between the window and BlownZ’s hatch before we  We checked for any gaps between the window and BlownZ’s hatch before we With Tim and Dean starting from the top and working their way down, we secured our new rear window into place without any problems. 

Fogging Up the Windows?

Now before you remove the plastic and walk away, there’s one thing we need to mention. One of the common drawbacks with all composite windows in your race car is the increased potential fogging that can occur. To help prevent fogging, Schultz suggests using Five-Star’s Anti-Fog Foaming Solution (PN 843). It helps maintain the clear visibility and durability you would expect from your Five-Star windows, and we used it on our BlownZ Camaro.

The anti-fog solution also helps protect our composite windows from warping and cracking under the sun’s heat, or the twist of the chassis when BlownZ leaves the line hard.

“The foaming solution helps ensure clear visibility for years of use.” says Schultz. “But be careful of using other products on these windows. There are some solutions that are loaded with many different chemicals, and can potentially damage the plastic if used incorrectly.”

We installed our rear window by attaching it to the rear hatch first, snugging down our screws much in the same way as we had with our windshield.

After we applied our foaming solution, we stood back and admired our work. At a glance, the Five Star windows look as naturally clear as the factory glass, and even has the black “frit” around the edges that all modern auto glass comes with from the factory. Since we’re on the subject, the frit is there to protect the urethane moldings that help hold the glass to the body’s window frame. 

Once we had our screws snugged down, we reattached our rear hatch to BlownZ's body.

We’re almost completely done with Project BlownZ, and this has been a journey of trials and tribulations. But that’s to be expected when building a car of this caliber. It might not be for the impatient or for the faint of heart, but when it’s all said and done it will definitely be worth it. Stay tuned for more on this car in the coming installments.

After we installed the rear window and applied our foaming solution, we applied our racing decals

This is how our Z28 looked from behind, prior to our Racecraft Strutless Wing install. The factory Camaro spoiler will still reside on the car, as the Racecraft unit will be partially mounted to it. The aluminum piece is the deck filler panel (PN# 400118) that's recommended we use with the strutless spoiler.

The ultimate goal with the Camaro is to produce something north of 1,200 horsepower, and run consistent 8-second quarter-mile times on skinny 275 drag radials. However, to do that safely and reliably, we’ve had to install multiple safety features and endless traction aids. We’re not cutting any corners with this car, and we’re throwing everything we can get our hands on in order for Blown Z to get us down the strip as quickly and safely as possible.

Apart from the obvious necessities when building a drag car of this caliber, such as a rollcage, parachute, and other obvious modifications that most 12-second bracket guys couldn’t even imagine, we took it upon ourselves to install a Racecraft Strutless Rear Spoiler and Rear Deck Filler onto our BlownZ Camaro.

Selecting the Right Spoiler 

The main benefit you will get from this type of spoiler is getting the turbulent air off of the back of the car, and some assistance with getting air out from under the car; both of which help reduce unwanted drag. Racecraft offers most spoilers with a short wicker that adjusts from zero, to 1/4-inch, and 3/8-inch. This option offers less drag for applications that don’t  typically struggle with serious back-half traction problems.

For the maniacs pulling down 150 mph trap speeds in the 1320′, Racecraft offers a 17-inch version (PN# 400117) of its strutless spoiler. This larger unit includes all of the same benefits and features of the standard 15-incher, but offers different adjustments from 3/4-inch, 1-inch, and 1 1/8-inch varieties to help increase traction. We’ve got aspirations to be among those maniacs, so the big 17-inch spoiler it is for us.

The strutless spoiler comes with everything including hardware. The boys at Racecraft leave it up to the consumer if they want to leave it in it's bright, aluminum finish, or to have it painted to match the car. We'll be painting our 17-inch example (PN# 400117) to match the sinister black hue on Blown Z.

Installation

The process starts by prepping the factory rear spoiler, a relatively easy affair that consists of removing the plastic interior panel attached to the underside of the rear hatch. The panel is connected to the hatch with countersink screws, and require a #37 drill bit for removal. Once removed, take out the pan head screws that are mounted within the thin plastic. We used a #50 drill bit for this task.

Once we removed the interior plastic panel and rear spoiler, we were ready to install our new Racecraft strutless wing. We started by mounting the outer supports with duct tape tightly stretched on 2 to 3 layers. In doing so we made sure that each support was pulled tight for a 1/32-inch gap between back edge of body and front tab.

Here's the filler panel (PN# 400118) that Racecraft recommends we install along with our strutless rear spoiler. It further aids in aerodynamics and downforce.

We continued following the instructions and made sure that the supports were level by looking at them from each side of the car and simply eyeing them up. If needed, you can add more tape to hold adjusted position and mount the supports with one screw at each end using the lower hole at the rear. After you do that, you need to mount the center supports to the wing sails (with the legs in) at the front, back, and center with three bolts.

Next, slide the wing forward and lightly snug the bolts down so you can still make adjustments. Add the lower and front mounting tabs to both supports and finger tighten them as well. When you do this, don’t forget to center the sail truss at the front edge of the wing between the center supports. Next you’ll need to mount the wicker at the desired height, and tighten down the leaning outer tabs on each end.

Now you’re ready to slide the sail into position and rest it on the outer supports, aligning it with the slots and loosely bolting the two pieces together with all five holes in each side. You’ll want to firmly push center supports into the appropriate position, and keep the back edge of the hatch to sail gaps uniform at the outer supports, and progressively tighten the five outer support bolts on each side.

Installing the Racecraft strutless wing is mostly a matter of following the instructions exactly and taking your time to line everything up perfectly.

Before moving on to the next step, you’ll want to make sure the front portion of the center supports are aligned perfectly straight from front to back and parallel to one another by using sight and a tape measure. Next, mount the supports on the top tab nearest to center taillight lens and the lower adjustment tabs at the bottom edge of the car’s hatch by drilling a #28 hole. After doing so, you’ll need to adjust the center sail and tighten the 4-adjustment screw on lower mounting tabs.

Once we laid all of the components out on the ground, we started the basic assembly process...

In case you thought you were finished adjusting things, you’re not, and you’ll need to adjust the front center support tabs and accurately mark the holes to the upper and lower hatch surface. You then need to lift the hatch and remove the counter screws that are located in the side of the supports, and unbolt and remove upper hatch panel. You need to drill all of the marked holes with a #50 drill bit and fasten to the underside of the upper panel.

...and continued to assemble the spoiler until it was ready for installation onto our Camaro.

Once you’ve managed that, reinstall the upper panel and bolt the upper tab to the center support, then reinstall the countersunk screws on side supports and unbolt the wing sail from side supports. Drill and fasten all of the remaining screws in the side supports.

You will then need to apply the adjuster tabs to the side plate bout to the outer support. Then remove the sail-to-outer supports leaving the bolts loose. Next, Loosen the center support bolts, adjust the sail forward to desired gap to deck and then tighten all twenty bolts on the strut and the three remaining on center truss.

Then install, adjust, and tighten down the outer wicker tabs followed by the side plate. You’ll need to tighten the bolts down by working your way out from the second hole in, positioning the sail and tightening the adjustment bolts. Next, you’ll have to pinch the lower adjustment tab and the side plate together, then mark and drill a hole using a #28 bit. Then bolt the pieces together and tighten.

It's best to have two people do the install, it makes the job easier. Our shop techs take their time installing the spoiler by properly adjusting the spoiler struts.

You’ll have to position the side plate and tighten the adjustment bolts. Racecraft suggest the some hand forming may be required to get the front edge of the side plate to fit perfectly.

And finally, concluding your strutless wing installation will require you to install the long and short tabs along the front edge of the sail between the inner and outer supports. Once the bolts are finger tight, slide the piece into position to where it’s flush on top of the sail panel. Wrap up the installation by tightening the bolts and install screws, but remember not to over-tighten, but just make them snug so they won’t move. Over-tightening could change the adjustment.

Make sure that everything is lined up correctly before you tighten everything down.

Benefits and Applications

Benefits of the Racecraft strutless spoiler (PN# 400117):

• Carries the air beyond the decklid of the car to the wicker
• Drastically reduces drag from the turbulent air on the back of the car
• Assists in getting air out from underneath the chassis
• Longer wings enhance the aforementioned characteristics
• Moves the wicker back for more cantilevered downforce beyond axle centerline
• Assists in parachute deployment

We spoke with company founder Pat Fasnacht at Racecraft about the many benefits these can spoilers have for high MPH drag cars. “The Strutless Spoiler carries the air beyond the decklid of the car to the wicker, and this increases the downforce. “It also helps to reduce drag from turbulent air on the back of the car, effectively aiding aerodynamics. It further improves upon aerodynamic efficiency by assisting in getting the air to from underneath the car, similar in the same way it does in Formula-1 cars and NASCAR.”

In a small-tire drag radial car like BlownZ, we need all the downforce and pressure on the rear of the car we can get, and the Racecraft spoiler is going to help us with just that. Per Fasnacht, “Installing the longer 17-inch Racecraft wing enhances all of the aerodynamic characteristics, plus it’ll move the wicker back for more cantilevered downforce beyond the centerline of the rear axle. Plus, in really fast drag cars like BlownZ, it also aids in parachute deployment.”

Here's the spoiler once we are completed with the installation. You'll also notice how the spoiler hugs the body perfectly, without hardly any gap

The side plates that are included in this kit assist with all functions of the wing body mentioned above, while greatly enhancing side-to-side stability to the back of the car, especially above 150 mph. Once you’re capable of hitting speeds that high in such a short distance, you need all the traction and downforce you can get.

...and here's the completed project; ready, willing, and able for the dragstrip. After fully installed, and a fresh coat of body-matching black enamel, the Racecraft Strutless Spoiler looked at home on our purpose-built 'Maro.

In Conclusion…

After we’ve installed our 17-inch strutless spoiler, we know that it will provide us with improved traction and safety, and as an added benefit, it gives BlownZ that bad-ass drag car look. The installation only took a couple of hours (including paint time), and it’s a modification we’re glad we’ve invested in. Tune in for the next chapters of the BlownZ project saga, as we hit the dyno and drag strip to finally see the fruits of our labors.

In this segment we are going to be replacing the rusted floor pan on our project car with some quality floorpan restoration parts from Classic Industries in our very hot, Southern California PowerTV garage.

When we first brought Project Swinger to the garage, we knew that she looked good from far. However, we soon discovered.. she was far from good. We started to tackle the problems that we knew about. Before long, our list has grown by orders of magnitude to at least the 10th power. Like peeling an onion, each layer that we stripped, we cried a little more.

tIt would have been easy to cry over spilled milk on this project, but that’s just not the way we operate in the very manly PowerTV garage. There’s no crying in project builds. Not in this garage. Not on our watch. Armed with a full set of professional tools from Cornwell tools, we dusted off the pneumatic cut off wheel and our welding equipment for the PowerTV version of “cut and paste”.

First, we’re going to give you an overview of the Nova and why these GM vehicles are so suspect to rust. Then, we’ll overview what Classic offers in terms of restoration components. Finally, we’ll show you how to do the job, correctly, the first time.

Nova = GM’s Affordable Car in the 1970′s

GM redesigned the Nova to be an entry level economy car for a younger crowd in the later 60′s and early 70′s. Small enough to fit in any budget, but big enough to hold a family of five, the Nova enjoyed great success. Best of all, it was still available in the small block Chevy V-8 engine. The optional V-8 engine made the Nova a popular platform for the gear heads that wanted a lightweight and muscular street performer.

The Nova, 37 Years Later

It’s been our experience that a car’s life extends to the limit of your warranty. The day after the warranty expires, the car dies. Or at least that is what it feels like. Our Nova has lived a long eventful life, well past any factory warranty. However, time affects everything. Our project is no exception to that rule. In stripping the Nova for a couple of upgrades, the crippling existence of time and age unveiled itself.

We had rust, which is very common an a Chevrolet Nova X-Body such as our 1971 model. The most common areas of rust on this particular body style are:

• Passenger & Driver side front floorpans (windshield seal leaks)
• Lower Doors
• Rear Lower Quarters

Since our car was already painted, we weren’t sure how bad the quarters and doors were (yet), but we knew we needed to do the floorpans. It was obvious. You could see daylight through them.

There are a lot of considerations when deciding to replace or restore part of the floor pan. Sheet metal is fairly easy to work with, but there is some skill and special tools involved in tackling this task. Welding sheet metal is almost an art form, and using the correct welding equipment is essential to do the job properly. Additionally, choosing restoration parts that are comparable to the original is critical to welding success. Restoration floor pans that are made of the same or similar metal as the original make the task easier, and the replacement parts should have the same shape and molding as the existing pan.

There is hope. It’s called Classic Industries.

Amidst the despair and gnashing of teeth in the project build meeting to determine the solution for this problem, a cavalry came to the rescue.

Classic Industries in Huntington Beach, California. Classic is a very well known company which specializes in manufacturing restoration parts for GM cars. Chances are, if you love old GM cars and Trucks, you know about Classic Industries. Classic has it all covered for classic Camaros, Firebirds, Chevy II and Novas, Impalas, as well as GM & GMC Trucks.

“We offer a couple of different product lines that can support almost any budget, from original equipment reproduction pieces to GM licensed reproductions,” explained Tony Columbini from Classic Industries.

We spent some time looking through the Classic Industries Nova Catalog and decided to replace only the portion of the floorboard that was rotten. The front half of the driver’s and passenger’s floorboards and the firewall extensions on both sides, were the only areas that were not solid.

About Classic restoration floor pans:

We found the restoration floor pans from Classic Industries to be an identical match to the original floor pan:

• The sheet metal used in the construction of the restoration pieces was the same caliber as the OEM factory metal, which made the welding easy and consistent.

• The restoration floor pans had every bend, turn and crevice that the factory floor pan had. We gave these products two thumbs up for making what used to be a difficult restoration a much easier project.

Parts

1) Front LH partial floor pan. Part# 107211
2) Front RH partial floor pan. Part # 107212
3) Firewall extension LH. Part # C126L
4) Firewall extension RH. Part # C126R
5) Primer
6) Seam Sealer

Tools:

• Floor Jack
• Jack stands (4)
• Safety Glasses
• Gloves
• Pneumatic Die Grinder with cut off wheel.
• Flat hand file.
• Utility Knife
• Pliers
• Wire brush or rotary brush.
• Pneumatic hammer with chisel bit.
• Welding equipment (MIG or TIG).

The Choices

Classic offers floorpans for the Nova in several variations. Full floor pans, front half floor pans, and rear half floor pans – all available in left and right side configurations. Also, a floor pan firewall extension is available which runs from the front of the floor to the firewall (it’s kicked up at roughly a 45-degree angle).

For our application, we needed two front half floor pans – left and right – as well as the same matching set of extensions.

Let’s Get Started

Now we’re ready to start the project. We’ve identified the problem area, found our replacement reproduction floorboards and talked to Classic Industries Tech department to get the skinny on doing the job. Edd Stevens, Classic Industries Technical Advisor, reminded us to “support the body with weight off of the chassis, take your time and weld it straight.” According to Edd, every car is different with it’s own issues, you must assess what you have and based on your experience, how best to approach it. There is no wrong way when installing patch panels, it’s not set in stone, but it is important to arrive at the same point with a straight chassis and a restored floor pan that looks great.

It didn’t take long for the new floor pans to arrive, so we gathered the tools that we would need. We began by raising the Nova and supported it on jack stands. This step allowed us to have easy access under the car and it provided crucial support to the structure. Having the body twist when the sheet metal is cut away would be a disaster. Supporting the chassis with jack stands and only cutting out one panel at a time will help keep the body from twisting.

The first “hands on” step in this project is the one that requires the most patience and a good eye for detail; laying out the new floorboard on top of the rusted floorboard for measurement. The old adage of measure twice and cut once works real well when you’re working with lumber. Metal is a different matter. Literally. Measure twice and cut a little, measure again and cut a little more.

Decisions, Decisions

You will have to make a decision at this point. There are two different ways to weld the new floor pan patch panel into the body. You can use the new patch panel as a template and cut out the old metal to the exact fit of the new panel, and butt weld the panel in. The second method is to cut the old floor pan to nearly the same size as the replacement panel, leaving about an inch of extra material all the way around so that the new panel will overlap the existing floor pan.

Choosing to overlap the metal means that there would be an increased chance for future corrosion and some issues with creating a flange so that the new panel will sit flush into the existing floor pan. However, overlapping the metal may make it easier to weld than the exact fit method. This decision needs to be made based on experience in welding. Welders with limited experience in sheet metal repair may find that butt welding a new floor pan in place difficult and frustrating.

Let the tools do the work

The best practice when cutting the sheet metal is to use your power tools, whether it be pneumatic or electric, and not to force them. Let the tools do the cutting, after all, you paid good money for the tools, let them do the work. Pay close attention to what is on the other side of the metal. You can easily cut through a support or cross member causing damage that may not be repairable. If your floor pan is as rusted as ours was, wearing eye protection is not only smart but necessary to prevent rusted flakes of sheet metal getting into your eyes. A sturdy pair of leather gloves will keep you from a quick trip to the hospital for a tetanus shot when you cut yourself on the rusted metal.

There is seam sealer on the outboard edges of the floorpan that will need to be removed prior to cutting the sheet metal in those areas. A box cutter knife works well to cut that seam sealer and a pair of pliers can be used to pull the sealer out of the crevices.

The old floor pan will be spot welded to any bracing and cross members that are running under the car. Many people drill through the spot welds or grind the spot welds to remove the old floor pan. Of these two, grinding the spot welds would be preferable. We chose to take a path less traveled when dealing with these spot welds. A pneumatic hammer with a chisel bit made a nice clean separation at the weld.

The floor pan is spot welded to the cross brace. These spot welds will have to be broken to remove the sheet metal.

Once the old floor pan metal is pulled away, you can see the sub frame and cross members. Any part of the spot welds that are still attached to the cross member can be ground down and the surface can be prepped for the new floor pan. Edd reminded us to check the toe boards and surrounding areas for any additional hidden corrosion that may be laying in wait.

We had decided to butt weld the new floor pan to the existing pan after we cut out the rotten material. In our opinion, a floor pan that is butt welded has a cleaner or more sanitary look but requires more effort and time. Remember, patience is the key here. Using the new floor pan as a template, measure and cut the car’s floor pan until the new floor pan is a snug fit. Files can be used where small amounts of metal need to be removed around the edges.

Once the opening is the exact size to fit the new floor pan, it can be tack welded in place. There may be some areas where the floor pan and the restoration piece don’t match exactly. Using the pick end of a body picking hammer, tap the metal until they match perfectly.

Putting the new firewall extension in place. Note the separation on the upper left corner. The metal can be moved by using a body hammer until it forms a close seam.

The panel can then be tack welded on all sides. What we found that works well is to tack weld a new panel near the corners first. Then move to the middle of each of the sides and place another tack weld. Then, place another tack weld in between the tack welds you did previously. It is important to keep the heat from warping the sheet metal and these tack welds will serve as a guide.

Start welding from one tack weld to the next nearest one. When you have joined those tack welds with a full bead, move to the opposite side of the floor pan and fill in the gap between two spot welds on that side. Staggering your welding from side to side will help keep the heat from warping the metal.

File fitted. Clean the metal and it’s ready to be welded.

A quick word about welding.

Welding floorpans can be done by several methods. The method most often used seems to be the MIG welding process. TIG Welding the pans is also very popular but takes a little more time and skill. A smaller tungsten rod and 100% argon shielding gas will give the best chance for a perfect weld. The sheet metal used in constructing floor pans is a thin gauge that can be “burned through” rapidly. Heat control setting vary between welding machines, so doing a practice run on some of the metal that was cut out of the floor pan area would be a wise idea. If you don’t have experience TIG welding sheet metal, you can expect to burn through the floor pan sheet metal in several places.

MIG welding can be done with wire and shielding gas or flux cored wire and no shielding gas. When welding sheet metal, .025 welding wire with shielding gas (75% Argon & 25% CO2 blend) is the best method. And remember: You can’t weld rust. No matter what method you use or how hard you try, rust doesn’t weld. Clean the metal before you weld.

Prepping the metal for welding.

To MIG or not to MIG

We compromised. With a little time and effort, we were able to get the panels to line up perfectly with the existing pan. We tack welded the edges and stitched the pieces of metal together with a MIG welding machine. Once we had a full bead around all sides, we touched up the high spots with TIG welder.

The firewall extension is welded to the existing pylon support.

Once the floor pan and firewall extension were completely welded in place, a coating of primer was sprayed over the seams for corrosion prevention. We used a shop light beneath the car to look for any pin holes or areas in the seams where there was a gap.

The restoration floor pan and firewall extension from Classic Industries matched the existing

Finishing Touches

To complete the project, we took seam sealer and applied it around the restored floor pan. The job was not complete until we applied sealer around the seams on the bottom side as well. The pictures below show how the final portion of this project came out.

Apply seam sealer all the way around the restoration floor pan. Using a small putty knife or flat wood depressor would be a better tool to use.

Seam sealer applied to every seam.

Another shot of primer and we are ready to move on with interior installation.

Now we have a floorboard that we are confident in putting our feet on.