For any modern Ford fan looking to make serious power, there’s always one big question: how much can the stock Coyote engine block actually handle before it lets go? Shaun Perry of AED Tuning, a shop that specializes in high-horsepower Coyote blocks, recently gave a detailed technical breakdown of the platform’s most common block options, explaining the specific weak points and what it takes to build one reliably.

Perry’s main point is that for the Coyote engine, it’s the block itself that’s the primary concern, not the internal parts. He notes that the factory connecting rods and forged crankshaft are incredibly strong. As Perry explains, “We’ve pushed those connecting rods to 1,200 [horsepower], never saw an issue, assuming a good tune.” The factory crank is known to be indestructible up to 1,500 horsepower in factory form, per Perry. The problem, he says, is what holds it all together.

Gen 1 Coyote Block

The standard Gen 1, 2, and 3 factory Coyote blocks are made from 319 low-pressure cast aluminum. Perry describes this material as very rigid, meaning it doesn’t like to flex. “If you start flexing these things, you’ll end up cracking them,” says Perry

A major cause of this flex comes from the factory motor mount design, which bolts directly to the cylinder walls and can physically distort the block and cylinder bores under heavy load. For this reason, Perry highly recommends using a midplate to support the block in any build making 1,000 wheel horsepower.

 “We’ve taken these motors with the factory blocks and a midplate to 1,200 horsepower to the tires,” shares Perry. His final word on these builds is clear: “It’s not the parts that are the weak point; it’s the block.”

5.2L Predator Block

The next step up in the Ford lineup is the Predator block, found in the Shelby GT500. This block features some improvements, including a more closed-deck design and thicker, stronger material in the main webbing area.

However, it is still made from the same rigid 319 aluminum as the standard blocks, meaning it shares the same dislike for flexing. Interestingly, the Predator block is about two pounds lighter than a Gen 1 block because it uses a modern arc-wire transfer spray-in cylinder liner instead of heavy, pressed-in iron sleeves. While it’s a stronger starting point, Shaun still recommends a midplate for serious power applications.

Bear Block Performance Coyote Block

For builders looking for a more robust foundation, Perry presents the aftermarket Bear Block Motors block. Its biggest advantage is the material. “It’s not 319. The Bear block is cast from A356,” Perry states. This block can handle the twisting forces of extreme horsepower without cracking. It’s also thicker and stronger in nearly every area, weighing only about ten pounds more than a Predator block.

The proof is in the testing; as Shaun notes, “We’ve had the Bear block at 1,600 horsepower to the tires with standard motor mounts, no midplate, and this thing doesn’t flex.” For high-horsepower street cars with superchargers where a midplate isn’t practical, Perry says, “This block will handle the power without issues.”

Final Thoughts

The takeaway from Perry’s breakdown is clear. These Coyote blocks have their own advantages and disadvantages. At the end of the day, it all comes down to your power goals and how you plan to use the car. Each of these three blocks has its place and offers a different level of strength. And, of course, if weight isn’t your main concern, there’s always Ford Performance‘s Werewolf iron Coyote block.