Centerforce University #2 – Proper Clutch Break-In Procedures

Welcome back to Centerforce University! In our first installment, we covered the basics of how a clutch works, and in this episode your professors from Centerforce Clutches are going to teach you about how to properly break in a new clutch.

Taking the time to allow a clutch to properly break in is one of the most important things you can do to insure that it lives a long and grippy life inside your bell housing. “Professor” Will Baty, from Centerforce explains, “Just driving around town, taking it easy for about 500 miles is the best way to seat a clutch in. Not 500 miles on the freeway, or going out drag racing. We want the clutch to be heat cycled as many times possible without over heating it, and with minimal power applied. The clutch disc has high and low spots on the friction material, and you want to reduce the high spots and embed the friction material to the pressure plate and flywheel. You want to create a nice even surface on the disc.”

Simple, right? No highway driving and no beating on the clutch for the first 500 miles.

If you want to get the most out of you clutch, and have it last as long as possible, you need to break it in properly.

Now, if you get impatient and decide to get rough with the clutch before it’s been properly seated, there can be some pretty bad consequences, the worst of which is glazing the disc. And no, we aren’t talking about covering it in the sugary goodness that donuts have on them.

Baty says, “When a disc is glazed, the friction material is essentially polished smooth because the driver was too hard on the clutch before it was properly broken in. Once a clutch disc glazes, it loses its friction. It’s very much like sanding all the grit off of sand paper or a tire losing all its tread; it’s slick and won’t grip very well. Once the friction is gone from the disc, there is no getting it back, and you’ll have to replace the disc if you want your clutch to work properly again.”

Notice those shiny spots on the friction material? Yeah, that's not good. Someone got a little impatient and went drag racing with this clutch before it was properly seated, and glazed it.

That’s it for this class, but in the next installment of Centerforce University we will go over flywheel design and how to pick the right one for your car, so stay tuned!

About the author

Clifton Klaverweiden

Clifton has been a car fanatic since his late teens, when he started the restoration of his '67 Camaro. He considers himself a student of automotive science and technology, and particularly loves all things LSX. And, although he has an appreciation for everything, from imports to exotics, his true passion will always be for GM musclecars.
Read My Articles

Drag Racing in your Inbox.

Build your own custom newsletter with the content you love from Dragzine, directly to your inbox, absolutely FREE!

Free WordPress Themes
Dragzine NEWSLETTER - SIGN UP FREE!

We will safeguard your e-mail and only send content you request.

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

We'll send you the most interesting Dragzine articles, news, car features, and videos every week.

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

Dragzine NEWSLETTER - SIGN UP FREE!

We will safeguard your e-mail and only send content you request.

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

Thank you for your subscription.

Subscribe to more FREE Online Magazines!

We think you might like...


Street Muscle Magazine
Hot Rods & Muscle Cars
Diesel Army
Diesel Army
Engine Labs
Engine Tech

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

Thank you for your subscription.

Subscribe to more FREE Online Magazines!

We think you might like...

  • Streetmuscle Hot Rods & Muscle Cars
  • Diesel Army Diesel Army
  • Engine Labs Engine Tech

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

Dragzine

Thank you for your subscription.

Thank you for your subscription.

Dragzine - Drag Racing Magazine

Thank you for your subscription.

Thank you for your subscription.

Loading